Dyeing Of Gloria
Gloria is a material which during the last few years has become of
considerable importance as furnishing a fine lustrous fabric at a
comparatively low price. The perfection to which the art of dyeing has
attained and the facilities now available to the dyer, enable this to
be produced more beautiful than ever, and naturally an increased
demand for it as a dress fabric has developed.
Gloria is woven from t
to enable it to be used in the place of a silk fabric. Formerly it was
usually woven with the wool and silk yarns already dyed, especially
when a shot effect was to be produced, this being done by a twill
weave of the fabric and by the use of yarns of two very different
colours in the case of shot fabrics. By the introduction of
dye-stuffs derived from coal tar the cloth is now dyed after being
woven, care being taken to choose those which will dye the two fibres
equally well when self-shades are wanted, or those which will dye one
fibre better than the other, and thus allow a woven piece of gloria to
be dyed of two different colours. As most dyers know, the most
brilliant effects are obtained when the finished woven piece can be
dyed. Then all the grease and dirt which has become attached to it
during the operations of spinning the yarns and weaving the pieces can
be removed before dyeing, thus leaving the fabric in a perfectly clean
condition. Thus no after cleansing is required, whereas when the (p. 189)
fibres are dyed in the yarn the goods must be cleansed after weaving
to free them from dirt, and such cleaning has a somewhat deleterious
effect upon the brilliancy of the colour of the finished fabric, more
especially in the case of light colours.
Gloria may be in one colour only, a self-colour as it is called; this
case is comparatively simple, the only care that is required being to
select dyes which have an equal affinity for the two fibres or which
give but slightly different shades. Still, some good effects are
obtained when dyes are used which dye the silk and wool different
colours but give the combined effect of a self-colour. Or the fibre
may be purposely dyed in two different colours in some cases to give
the shot effect. This is much more troublesome, but with a little
care can be carried out with good results. The dyes available for
dyeing gloria may be classified, according to their behaviour in
regard to their dyeing of the two fibres, into three groups as
follows:--
Group A.--Those which will dye the two fibres of equal shade.
Group B.--Those which will dye the wool at boiling heat more readily
than the silk.
Group C.--Those which will dye the silk only in a cold bath.
Group A consists of those dyes which can be used in dyeing
self-colours on gloria from acid baths. It includes Alkali Blue,
Naphthylamine Blacks, Naphthol Green B, Indian Yellow, Croceine A Z,
Croceine Orange, Orange R, Brilliant Croceine M, Rose Bengale,
Thiocarmine R, Soluble Blue, Formyl Violet S 4 B, Acid Green, Croceine
Orange G, Carmoisin, Acid Violet 5 B, Fast Acid Violet 10 B, Fast
Green Bluish, Rhodamine, Silk Blue, Victoria Black, Archil, Turmeric,
Safranine, Auramine, Quinoline Yellow, Azoflavine, Victoria Blue and
Bismarck Brown.
Group B comprises those dye-stuffs which in a boiling acid (p. 190)
bath dye the wool deeper than the silks, in other words have more
affinity for the wool than the silk, Tropaeoline O, Acid Magenta,
Indigo Extract, Phloxine, Naphthol Yellow, Orange G G, Scarlet S, Azo
Red A, Eosines, Thiocarmine R, Naphthol Black B B, New Victoria Black
Blue, Erythrosine, and Roccelline.
The silk becomes tinted to a more or less extent when in such a bath,
but often the colour is readily removed either by subsequent passage
through boiling water or through hot soap liquor. A very good clearing
can be effected by the use of a bath of acetate of ammonia. Naphthol
Yellow, for instance, only imparts a very faint shade of yellow when
thus dyed, and this is easily removed by boiling-water treatment.
Group C.--Those dye-stuffs which will dye the silk more readily in a
cold bath than the wool. These comprise most of the basic dyes, such
as Thioflavine T, Safranine, Brilliant Green, Methyl Violet, Magenta,
New Methylene Blue, Bismarck Brown, Rose Bengale, Phloxine, Acid
Greens, Formyl Violet S 4 B, Rhodamine, Solid Blue, etc.
Gloria may be dyed either by a one-bath or two-bath process, and
either one or two colours, as may be required. In both cases advantage
may be taken of the different affinities of the two fibres for the
dye-stuffs used, as, for instance, the silk may be dyed brown, the
wool olive by using a mixture of Acid Yellow, Indigo extract and
Orange G. Indigo extract, Cochineal, Acid Magenta, Picric acid,
Naphthol Yellow, and Tartrazine dye the wool only at the boil.
The following recipes will serve to illustrate the foregoing remarks
and show how this important fabric may be dyed:--
Deep Gold.--The dye-bath is made from 2 lb. Indian Yellow, 10 lb.
Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, dyed at the boil. In this
and following recipes the quantities are for 100 lb.
Orange.--The dye-bath is made with 2 lb. Indian Yellow, 19 lb. (p. 191)
Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Scarlet.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Scarlet 3 R, 10 lb. Glauber's
salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Another scarlet is got from 2 lb.
sulphuric acid. Another scarlet is got from 2 lb. Croceine Scarlet
3 B, 2 lb. sulphuric acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; by using the 5 B
Scarlet a bluer shade can be dyed. Azo Cochineal also dyes a fine
scarlet on gloria.
Crimson.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Carmoisin B, 10 lb. Glauber's
salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. The 7 B Croceine Scarlet also dyes a
fine crimson of a more fiery tone than the last, while 2-1/2 lb. Azo
Fuchsine G dyes a bluer shade of crimson.
Rose.--A fine rose is obtained with 2 lb. Rhodamine B, 10 lb.
Glauber's salt, and a little acetic acid. 1 lb. Phloxine dyes a fine
deep rose; the silk comes out a paler colour than the wool, but the
general effect is good.
Deep Maroon.--Make the dye-bath from 1-1/2 lb. Croceine A Z, 1/2 lb.
Indian Yellow, 1/4 lb. Formyl Violet S 4 B, 10 lb. bisulphate of soda.
Enter the goods, work at the boil for an hour, then cool down to
120 deg. F., enter an equal quantity of dye-stuff and work for an hour
longer.
Pale Maroon.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Azo Bordeaux, 10 lb.
Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Black.--Prepare the dye-bath with 5 lb. Naphthylamine Black D, 1 lb.
Acid Green B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid; work at
the boil for twenty minutes, then allow to cool to 120 deg. or 130 deg.
F., then work an hour longer. Another black can be dyed in a similar
way from 5 lb. Victoria Black B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb.
sulphuric acid.
Violet.--Use 2 lb. Acid Violet 5 B, or 2 lb. Formyl Violet S 4 B,
10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Fast Acid Violet 10 B
gives a bluer shade than the above.
Green.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Acid Green G G, 10 lb. (p. 192)
Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil. This
gives a bright yellow shade of green; a bluer shade can be got from
Acid Green 6 B or Acid Green B, while Fast Green Bluish gives very
blue greens.
Coeruleum Blue.--Dye with 3/4 lb. Silk Blue B E S, 10 lb. Glauber's
salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid; this gives a very fine bright blue.
Deep Indigo Blue.--Dye with 4-1/2 lb. Solid Blue R, 2 lb.
Thiocarmine R paste, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Deep Violet Brown.--Dye with 3 lb. Croceine A Z, 1-1/4 lb. Indian
Yellow, 1-3/4 lb. Formyl Violet S 4 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and
2 lb. sulphuric acid for an hour at the boil, and for an hour at
120 deg. F.
Blue Black.--Make the dye-bath with 5 lb. New Victoria Blue Black,
10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil.
Another plan is to use 5 lb. Naphthylamine Black 4 B and 10 lb.
bisulphate of soda.
Dark Grey.--Prepare a dye-bath with 3 lb. Naphthol Black 3 B, 4 lb.
Naphthol Green B, 1 lb. Amaranth, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 8 lb.
copperas, and 3 lb. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for an hour
and then rinsing in water to which a little acetate of ammonia has
been added. The silk is dyed grey and the wool a black.
Brown.--A fine yellow brown shot with lilac is obtained by first
dyeing in a bath of 5 lb. Naphthol Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and
2 lb. sulphuric acid. Wash in hot water, then dye with 2-1/2 lb. Solid
Blue P G, 1-1/2 oz. Methyl Violet B O, and 5 lb. acetic acid in the
cold.
Wool, Orange; Silk, Pale Green.--Dye the wool with 1-1/2 lb. Orange
G G, 6 oz. Naphthol Green B, 2-1/2 oz. Naphthol Red C, 10 lb.
bisulphate of soda, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid; and the silk with
1/2 lb. Milling Yellow and 1/2 lb. Acid Green.
Wool, Black; Silk, Light Grey.--Dye in a bath with 5 lb. (p. 193)
Anthracene Acid Black S T, 4-1/2 oz. Fast Yellow S, 10 lb. bisulphate
of soda, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. The silk is cleaned by boiling for
ten minutes in a soap bath.
Wool, Bright Red; Silk, Blush Rose.--The gloria silk is dyed in a
bath of 3 lb. Naphthol Red O, 10 lb. bisulphate of soda, and 2 lb.
sulphuric acid. After dyeing, soap for ten minutes.
Wool, Black; Silk, Green.--Dye the wool in a bath containing 5 lb.
Anthracene Acid Black S T, 5 oz. Fast Yellow S, 2 lb. oxalic acid,
10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 15 lb. acetic acid. Work the goods in this
at the boil for an hour, then lift, add 3/4 lb. bichromate of potash,
and boil for twenty minutes longer. Clean the silk by boiling in a
bath of soap for twenty minutes, then dye in a cold bath containing
1 lb. Thioflavine T and 1 lb. Brilliant Green.
Wool, Dark Maroon; Silk, Pale Blue.--After the manner described in
the first recipe, dye the wool with 1 lb. Orange G G, 3 lb. Naphthol
Green B, 2 lb. Brilliant Cochineal 2 R, 10 lb. bisulphate of soda, and
2 lb. sulphuric acid. Dye the silk with 1-1/2 lb. Pure Blue O T.
Wool, Violet; Silk, Green.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Acid Violet
4 B, 9 oz. Indigotine extra, 10 lb. bisulphate of soda, and 2 lb.
sulphuric acid. The dyeing is carried on at the boil until the bath is
exhausted of colour, whereupon the goods are well rinsed in water.
They are next soaped at 160 deg. F. for ten minutes in a liquor containing
1/2 oz. soap per gallon, then rinsed. Next a dye-bath is made with
1 lb. Acid Green, 8 oz. Milling Yellow O, and 1 lb. acetic acid, the
goods being treated in this in the cold until the desired shade is
obtained, then lifted, rinsed and dried.
Violet and Pink.--A fine effect of violet shot with pink is obtained
by dyeing in a bath of 1-1/2 lb. Indigo extract, 1/2 lb. Rhodamine B,
10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Brown Olive and Green is dyed in a bath made with 1 lb. (p. 194)
Quinoline Yellow, 1 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 1/4 lb. Fast Green Bluish,
10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. By using about half
the above quantities of dye-stuffs a drab effect shot with green can
be obtained.
Crimson and Green.--The first bath is made from 4 lb. Azo Red A and
10 lb. bisulphate of soda, worked for an hour at the boil; then treat
in a weak bath of acetate of ammonia; and dye the silk in a cold bath
of 2 oz. Solid Green Crystals, 1/4 lb. Thioflavine T, and 5 lb. acetic
acid.
Violet and Pink.--Dye in a bath of 1-1/4 lb. Indigo extract, 10 lb.
Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Brown and Pink.--This is dyed in a bath made from 1-1/4 lb. Fast
Yellow, 5 oz. Rhodamine B, 1/4 lb. indigo extract, 10 lb. Glauber's
salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. The silk dyes a pale pink while the
general effect is that of a fine fawn brown with a reddish shot
effect.
Dark Green and Pale Crimson.--This is done in two baths, the first
is made with 8 lb. Naphthol Green B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 3 lb.
sulphuric acid, and 7 lb. copperas, working at the boil; then treat
with hot water and dye in a fresh bath with 6 oz. Safranine Prima and
5 lb. acetic acid in the cold. The combined effect of the two is that
of a brown shot with green.
Orange and Green.--This gives a splendid shot effect and is dyed as
follows. Work for an hour at the boil, for thirty minutes in a bath of
boiling water, then enter into a cold bath of 5 oz. Thioflavine T,
3 oz. Brilliant Green, and 3 lb. acetic acid; work for thirty minutes,
or until shade is obtained.
Orange and Blue.--Use first dye-bath as in the last, then, after
washing in hot water, dye in a bath of 2 oz. New Methylene Blue N, and
3 lb. acetic acid.
Silk, Sky Blue; Wool, Drab.--Make a dye-bath with 20 lb. acetic
acid, 3/4 oz. Indigotine, 3 oz. Fast Yellow extra and 2 oz. Azo (p. 195)
Fuchsine G. Work at the boil for one hour at 100 deg. F., then pass
into a bath of 3/4 oz. Turquoise Blue B B, and 2 lb. acetic acid,
working for half an hour at 80 deg.
Silk, Pink; Wool, Pale Blue.--Make a dye-bath with 15 lb. acetic
acid and 4-1/2 oz. Indigotine. Work at the boil for an hour, then pass
into a bran bath as before; next enter into a dye-bath at 80 deg. to
90 deg. of 3/4 oz. Brilliant Rhoduline R B, 1-1/2 oz. Auramine I I,
and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Silk, Green; Wool, Dark Crimson.--The first bath is made from 3 lb.
Azo Fuchsine G, 1 lb. Indian Yellow G and 20 lb. acetic acid; then
follows the bran and the final dye-bath, which is made from 1-1/2 oz.
Imperial Green G I, and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Silk, Orange; Wool, Black.--A dye-bath is made from 2 lb.
Indigotine, 2 lb. Indian Yellow G, 1/2 lb. Rhodamine G, and 20 lb.
acetic acid. Work at the boil for one hour; then lift, wash and dry.
Silk, Light Green; Wool, Dark Blue.--Make a dye-bath from 1/2 lb.
Azo Fuchsine G, 2 lb. Fast Light Green, and 20 lb. acetic acid. Work
at the boil to shade; then lift, wash and dry.
Silk, Yellow; Wool, Terra Cotta.--A dye-bath is made from 1-1/2 oz.
Indigotine, 3/4 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 9 oz. Indian Yellow R, and 20 lb.
acetic acid. Work at the boil for one hour; then lift, wash and dry.
Silk, Light Sea Green; Wool, Pale Sage.--Make the dye-bath with
1/2 lb. Fast Yellow extra, 3 oz. Azo Fuchsine G, 1-1/2 oz. Fast Green
bluish, and 20 lb. acetic acid. Work as in the last recipe.
Silk, Light Green; Wool, Brown.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Azo
Fuchsine G, 2-1/2 lb. Fast Yellow extra, 1/2 lb. Fast Green bluish,
and 20 lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil for one hour.
Silk, Pale Blue; Wool, Crimson.--Make a dye-bath with 2 lb. (p. 196)
Azo Crimson L and 20 lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil for one
hour, then pass into a bran bath for half an hour at 90 deg. F.,
and into another bath containing 1/2 lb. Turquoise Blue G, and
2 lb. acetic acid, at 90 deg. F., for half an hour; then wash
and dry.
Silk, Light Drab; Wool, Lavender.--Make the first dye-bath from
3 oz. Indigotine, 2 oz. Azo Fuchsine G, and 20 lb. acetic acid. After
working an hour at the boil, pass into a bran bath for half an hour,
afterwards topping with 1-1/2 oz. Bismarck Brown R and 2 lb. acetic
acid.
More
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Alder Bark
The bark and twigs of alder are used for dyeing brown and black. For 1 lb. wool use 1 lb. alder bark. Boil the wool with it for 2 hours, when it should be a dull reddish brown. Add 1/2 oz. copper as for every pound of wool for black. ... Alum
This is the most generally used of all the mordants, and has been known as such from early times in many parts of the world. For most colours a certain proportion of cream of tartar should be added to the alum bath as it helps to brighten the ultima... Appendix
=Testing Textile Fabrics.= This is an age of adulteration, and next to food there is probably no commodity that is adulterated as much as the clothing we wear. Large purchasers of textile fabrics and various administrative bodies, such as army clo... Artificial Silk
=Silk Cotton.= On account of the high price of silk various attempts have been made to find satisfactory substitutes for it. There are certain seed coverings of plants that contain very fine hair-like fibers with a luster almost equal to silk, but... Barberry
The roots and bark of Berberis Vulgaris is used principally for silk dyeing, without a mordant. The silk is worked at 50 deg. to 60 deg.C. in a solution of the dye wood slightly acidified with sulphuric, acetic or tartaric acid. For dark shades mord... Blue Shades On Wool
There are a very large number of blue artificial dyes of every class, but only a few natural ones, indigo and logwood, and with these every imaginable tint and shade of blue from the palest sky tints to the darkest navy blue or blue black can be pro... Boiling Out
Before dyeing cotton in the raw state, or in yarn spun direct from the raw state, it must be boiled for several hours to extract its natural impurities. For dark colours water alone may be used, but for light and bright colours a weak solution of ca... Brazil Woods
Various leguminous trees, including lima, sapan and peach wood, dye red with alum and tartar, and a purplish slate colour with bichromate of potash. Some old dyers use Brazil wood to heighten the red of madder. CAMWOOD, BARWOOD, SANDALWOOD, or SA... British Dye Plants
On the introduction of foreign dye woods and other dyes during the 17th and 18th centuries, the native dye plants were rapidly displaced, except in some out of the way places such as the Highlands and parts of Ireland. Some of these British dye pl... Brown Shades On Wool
Brown is a very important colour, of which there is an infinite variety of shades and it can be dyed in a great variety of ways and from a variety of dye-stuffs, as will be seen on looking through the recipes which follow, although these do not by a... Catechu
Catechu (Cutch) is an old Indian dye for cotton. It can also be used for wool and silk, and gives a fine rich brown. It is obtained from the wood of various species of Areca, Acacia and Mimosa trees. Bombay Catechu is considered best for dyeing purp... Catechu Brown
The wool is boiled for 1 to 1-1/2 hours, with 10 to 20 per cent catechu, then sadden with 2 to 4 per cent of copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate, or chrome, at 100 deg.C., in a separate bath for 1/2 hour. ... Chrome
(Potassium dichromate. Bichromate of Potash.) Chrome is a modern mordant, unknown to the dyer of fifty years ago. It is excellent for wool and is easy to use and very effective in its action. Its great advantage is that it leaves the wool soft to ... Cochineal
The dried red bodies of an insect (Coccus Cacti) found in Mexico are named Cochineal. (1). PURPLE, CRIMSON AND SCARLET (For 1 lb. wool.) Mordant with Bichromate of Potash (3%). Dye for 1 to 2 hours with 3 oz. to 6 oz. cochineal. With alum morda... Copper
(Copper Sulphate, Verdigris, Blue Vitriol, Blue Copperas, Bluestone.) Copper is rarely used as a mordant. It is usually applied as a saddening agent, that is, the wool is dyed first, and the mordant applied afterwards to fix the colour. With crea... Cotton
Cotton is the down surrounding the seeds in pods of certain shrubs and trees growing in tropical and semi-tropical countries. First introduced into Europe by the Saracens, it was manufactured into cloth in Spain in the early 13th century. Cotton clo... Cotton
=Cotton.= Cotton is the most important vegetable fiber used in spinning. The cotton fiber is a soft, downy substance which grows around the cotton seed. When examined under the microscope it appears as a long twisted cell. Owing to the fact that t... Cotton Fabrics
=Albatross.= Cotton albatross cloth is a fabric made in imitation of a worsted fabric of the same name. It has a fleecy surface. The name is taken from the bird whose downy breast the finish of the fabric resembles. The warp is usually 28s cotton,... Drying
Following on the washing comes the final operation of the dyeing process, that of drying the dyed and washed goods. Now textile fabrics of all kinds after they have passed through dye-baths, washing machines, etc., contain a large amount of water, o... Dyeing And Finishing
=Dyeing.= When a fabric or fiber is impregnated with a uniform color over its whole surface, it is said to be "simply dyed." On the other hand, if distinct patterns or designs in one or more colors have been impressed upon a fabric, it is called p... Dyeing Machinery And Dyeing Manipulations
Wool is dyed in a variety of forms, raw, loose wool; partly manufactured fibre in the form of slubbing or sliver; spun fibres or yarns, in hanks or skeins and in warps, and lastly in the form of woven pieces. These different forms necessitate the ... Dyeing Machines
Dye-tubs and vats, such as those described above, have been largely superseded by machines in which the handling or working of the materials being dyed is effected by mechanical means. There have been a large number of dyeing machines invented, some... Dyeing Of Gloria
Gloria is a material which during the last few years has become of considerable importance as furnishing a fine lustrous fabric at a comparatively low price. The perfection to which the art of dyeing has attained and the facilities now available t... Dyeing Union (mixed Cotton And Wool) Fabrics
There is now produced a great variety of textile fabrics of every conceivable texture by combining the two fibres, cotton and wool, in a number of ways. The variety of these fabrics has of late years considerably increased, which increase may be l... Dyer's Broom
Genista Tinctoria. The plant grows on waste ground. It should be picked in June or July and dried. It can be used with an alum and tartar mordant and gives a good bright yellow. It is called greening weed and used to be much used for greening blue w... Experimental Dyeing And Comparative Dye Testing
Every dyer ought to be able to make experiments in the mordanting and dyeing of textile fibres for the purpose of ascertaining the best methods of applying mordants or dye-stuffs, the best methods of obtaining any desired shade, and for the purpos... Fibers
All the materials used in the manufacture of clothing are called textiles and are made of either long or short fibers. These fibers can be made into a continuous thread. When two different sets of threads are interlaced, the resulting product is c... Flax
=Flax.= Flax or linen occupies the first position in the group of stem fibers,[18] being not only the oldest, but next to cotton the most important vegetable spinning material known. Its value is increased by the fact that the flax plant readily a... Green
Green results from the mixing of blue and yellow in varying proportions according to the shade of colour required. Every dyer has his particular yellow weed with which he greens his blue dyed stuff. But the best greens are undoubtedly got from w... Green Shades On Wool
Of green shades there is an infinite variety, and these can be dyed in several ways. Either a simple green dye-stuff may be used or mixtures of blue and yellow dye-stuffs may be employed, this latter method being extremely common. It is somewhat int... Heather
Most of the heathers make a yellow dye, but the one chiefly used is the Ling, Calluna vulgaris. The tips are gathered just before flowering. They are boiled in water for about half-an-hour. The wool, previously mordanted with alum or chrome accordin... Hemp
=Hemp= is a fiber that is obtained from the hemp plant. It grows principally in Russia, Poland, France, Italy, Asia, India, the Philippines, Japan, and some parts of the United States--Kentucky, Missouri, Tennessee, Ohio, Indiana, and New York. Th... History Of Lace
Lace, like porcelain, stained glass, and other artistic things, has always been an object of interest to all classes. Special patterns of laces date from the sixteenth century. The church and court have always encouraged its production. While the ea... History Of Manufacturing
=Spinning.= Spinning and weaving are two of the earliest arts practised by man. Yarn for the making of cloth was spun in the earliest times by the use of the distaff and spindle. The spindle was a round stick of wood a foot or less in length, taperi... History Of Textiles
The three fundamental industries that have developed from necessity are the feeding, sheltering, and clothing of the human race. These primary wants were first gratified before such conveniences as transportation and various lines of manufacture wer... History Of The Organization Of Textile Industries
The development of the textile industry may be divided into four stages or periods: first, the family system; second, the guild system; third, the domestic system; and fourth, the factory system. =The Family System.= Under the family system the wo... Hydrosulphite-soda Vat For Wool
2 ozs. powdered indigo. 7 fluid ozs. Caustic Soda solution (SG 1.2). 4 pints Sodium Hydrosulphite (SG 1.1). The Stock Solution.--Take 2 ozs. of well pounded indigo, with enough warm water (120 deg.F.) to make a paste, and grind in a pestle and m... Indigo
Indigo is the blue matter extracted from a plant Indigofera tinctoria and other species, growing in Asia, South America and Egypt. It reaches the market in a fine powder, which is insoluble in water. There are two ways of dyeing with Indigo. It may ... Indigo Extract 4 To 6 Lbs Wool
Mordant[E] 25% Alum. Stir 2 to 3 ozs. Indigo extract into the water of dye bath. The amount is determined by the depth of shade required. When warm, enter the wool and bring slowly to boiling point (about 1/2 an hour) and continue boiling for anothe... Indigo Vat Tin For Wool
To 2 quarts of water add 1/4 lb. lime, and make hot. Then add 1 oz. indigo pounded up with a little of the lime water; let it stand and get warmer. Pound up 1/2 oz. tin, Stannous Chloride, in a little lime water and add, together with 1/2 oz. zinc. ... Iron
(Ferrous Sulphate, copperas, green vitriol.) Iron is one of the oldest mordants known and is largely used in wool and cotton dyeing. It is almost as important as alum. The temperature of the mordanting bath must be raised very gradually to boiling... Kermes
Kermes, or Kerms, from which is got the "Scarlet of Grain" of the old dyers, is one of the old insect dyes. It is considered by most dyers to be the first of the red dyes, being more permanent than cochineal and brighter than madder. In the 10th cen... Knitting
The art and process of forming fabrics by looping a single thread, either by hand with slender wires or by means of a machine provided with hooked needles, is called knitting. Crocheting is an analogous art, but differs from knitting in the fact t... Lace
=Lace.= Lace is the name applied to an ornamental open work of threads of flax, cotton, silk, gold, or silver, and occasionally of mohair or aloe fiber. The latter are used by the peasants of Italy and Spain. Lace consists of two parts, the grou... Lace Terms Defined
Alencon (Point d').--Fine needlepoint lace with the ground of double-twist thread in a semi-net effect. Is usually worked with horsehair on the edges to give firmness to the cordonnet. Called after the city in France where it is... Light Grey
(For 6 lbs.) 1 oz. cutch, 1 oz. iron. Boil for 1/2 an hour in the cutch, then put into boiling iron, being very careful to stir well. Wash very thoroughly. These proportions can be varied according to the shade of grey required; the more iron mak... Linen
Linen is flax, derived from the decomposed stalks of a plant of the genus Linum. It grows chiefly in Russia, Belgium, France, Holland and Ireland. The plants after being gathered are subjected to a process called "retting" which separates the fib... List Of Lichens Used By The Peasantry Of Different Countries For Wool Dyeing
SHADES OF RED, PURPLE AND ORANGE Borrera ashney. Chutcheleera. India. Conicularia aculeata. var. spadicea. Brown prickly cornicularia. Canary Islands, Highland Mountains. Evernia prunastri. Ragged hoary Lichen. Stag's horn... Logwood
(Bois de Campeche, Campeachy Wood) Logwood is a dye wood from Central America, used for producing blues and purples on wool, black on cotton and wool, and black and violet on silk. It is called by old dyers one of the Lesser Dyes, because the col... Madder
Madder consists of the ground-up dried roots of a plant Rubia tinctorum, cultivated in France, Holland and other parts of Europe, as well as in India. Madder is one of the best and fastest dyes. It is used also in combination with other dyes to prod... Manufacture Of Cotton Yarn
=Picker Room.= The first step in the conversion of the bale of cotton into yarn consists in giving the cotton fibers a thorough cleaning. This is accomplished by feeding the cotton to a series of picker machines called in order, bale breaker, co... Mode Colours On Wool
Under the general designation of mode colours are included a great variety of tints or shades unusually described more specifically (p. 165) as drabs, buffs, greys, fawns, slates, etc. It is impossible here to do more than give a few recipes for t... Mordants
Any dye belongs to one of two classes. Substantive, giving colouring directly to the material: and adjective, which includes the greater number of dyes and requires the use of a mordant to bring out the colour. There are thus two processes conc... Mordants
Alum. Alum (1/4 weight of cotton) is dissolved in hot water with carbonate of soda crystals, or other alkali (1/4 weight of alum); work cotton in the solution, steep for several hours or overnight. Then well wash. Aluminium acetate solution as for s... Old Fustic
Fustic is the wood of Morus tinctoria, a tree of Central America. It is used principally for wool. With Bichromate of Potash as mordant, Old Fustic gives old gold colour. With alum it gives yellow, inclining to lemon yellow. The brightest yellows ar... Onion Skins
Prepare by mordanting with alum. Take a sufficient quantity of onion skins and boil for 30 minutes. This gives a good yellow. The addition of tin will make the colour more orange. ... Operations Following Dyeing Washing Soaping Drying
After loose wool, or woollen yarns or piece goods of every description have been dyed, before they can be sent out for sale they have to pass through various operations of a purifying character. There are some operations through which cloths pass ... Orange Shades On Wool
#With Direct Dyes.# Make a dye-bath with 2 lb. Titan Orange, 20 lb. Glauber's salt, and 1/2 lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil for one and a half hours, then lift, wash and dry. Bright Orange.--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Benzo Orange R, 10 lb. salt, and 1...