Green Shades On Wool
Of green shades there is an infinite variety, and these can be dyed in
several ways. Either a simple green dye-stuff may be used or mixtures
of blue and yellow dye-stuffs may be employed, this latter method
being extremely common. It is somewhat interesting to notice that,
notwithstanding the great prevalence of green in Nature, the dyer has
at his command no natural green dye-stuff, but must, if he prefers to
adopt na
to produce green shades. There are but few green colouring (p. 127)
matters derived from coal tar: Gambine, Dinitroso-resorcine, Alizarine
Green, Brilliant Green, Malachite Green, Azo Green, Fast Green,
Naphthol Green, Acid Green, Diamine Green, Benzo Green almost exhaust
the list. Compared with the numerous red and blue dyes which are
obtained from coal-tar products, green dyes are conspicuous by their
fewness. On the other hand, the dyer has in the blue and yellow dyes
from coal tar a means of producing any tint or shade of green he may
require.
Members of all the classes of basic, direct, acid, azo and mordant
dyes, can be found among the dye-stuffs which can be used in dyeing
green, and the methods and principles of their application have been
fully described in previous pages. The following recipes contain all
the practical information that is needed:--
#With Direct Dyes.# Dark Green.--The dye-bath is made with 1 lb. Titan
Blue 3 B, 1 lb. Titan Yellow Y, 2 lb. salt, and 1/2 lb. acetic acid.
Bright Green.--Prepare a dye-bath with 1 lb. Titan Yellow G, 1 lb.
Titan Blue 3 B, 20 lb. salt, and 1/2 lb. acetic acid, working at the
boil for one hour.
Dark Green.--Make a dye-bath with 4 lb. Acid Blue 4 S, 2 lb. Titan
Yellow Y, and 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, working at the boil to shade.
Blue Green.--Make the dye-bath with 6 lb. Acid Blue 4 S, 2-1/2 lb.
Titan Yellow Y, and 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, working at the boil to
shade.
Bottle Green.--The dye-bath is made with 5 lb. Acid Blue 4 S,
2-1/2 lb. Titan Yellow Y, and 5 lb. acetate of ammonia, working at the
boil to shade. The greens shown in the last three recipes are of a
very satisfactory character, and show how, by the use of acetate of
ammonia in the dye-bath, the direct dyeing Titan colours can be
combined with acid colours.
Green.--Make the dye-bath with 5 lb. Glauber's salt, 5 lb. (p. 128)
acetate of ammonia, 2 lb. Sulphon Cyanine, and 1-1/2 lb. Chrysophenine.
Dark Green.--The dye-bath is made with 2 lb. Sulphon Cyanine,
3/4 lb. Chrysophenine, 5 lb. Glauber's salt, and 5 lb. acetate of
ammonia.
Pale Russian Green.--Make the dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Sulphon Cyanine,
2-1/2 oz. Chrysophenine, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.
The last three shades have the merit of being fast to milling, and
fairly so to light.
Olive.--Make a dye-bath with 1 lb. Nyanza Black B, 1 lb. Chrysamine,
and 20 lb. Glauber's salt. Work at the boil to shade, lift, wash and
dry.
#With Acid Dyes.# Blue Green.--Make a dye-bath with 10 lb. Glauber's
salt, 2 lb. sulphuric acid, 2 lb. Patent Blue N, and 1 lb. Azo Yellow,
working at the boil.
Sage Green.--The dye-bath is made with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb.
sulphuric acid, 2 lb. Azo Yellow, and 1 lb. Patent Blue N, working at
the boil.
Olive Green.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Naphthol Green B, 10 lb.
Glauber's salt, 15 lb. bisulphate of soda, and 1 lb. copperas, working
at the boil to shade.
Bright Green.--Make the dye-bath with 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 5 lb.
bisulphate of soda, and 1-1/2 lb. Acid Green B, working at the boil to
shade.
Emerald Green.--The dye-bath is made with 1/2 lb. Acid Green B,
10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. The wool might also
be previously mordanted with 15 lb. hyposulphite of soda, and 5 lb.
sulphuric acid at the boil for one and a half hours, when it will give
a bright shade of emerald green.
Grass Green.--Dye a medium indigo bottom on the wool from the vat,
then dye in a bath with 1 lb. Milling Yellow O, 5 lb. Glauber's salt,
and 5 lb. bisulphate of soda; lift, wash and dry.
The last recipe shows the use of the indigo vat in giving the blue (p. 129)
constituent in dyeing greens and other compound colours on wool. This,
while being a very effective method of dyeing, yet necessitates two
operations which add very materially to the cost of dyeing such
shades, hence it is not used for dyeing low class woollen fabrics, but
for better class goods it is frequently adopted, fast colours being
thus obtained.
In thus using the indigo vat as a bottom dye regard to the properties
of indigo must be paid in carrying out any subsequent dyeing
operation, so that the indigo on the fibre be not destroyed. As a
rule, the indigo will resist any ordinary baths made with Glauber's
salt, acetate of ammonia, sulphuric or acetic acids, but it will not
resist mordanting operations with bichromate of potash, for the latter
salt destroys the indigo. Fluoride of chrome, chrome acetate, or alum,
may be used as mordants if necessary.
Pale Sea Green.--The dye-bath contains 1 oz. Cyanine B, 1 oz. Azo
Yellow, 5 lb. Glauber's salt, and 1 lb. sulphuric acid.
Moss Green.--The dye-bath is made with 1/2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 2 oz.
Cyanine B, 4 oz. Fast Acid Blue R, 3-1/4 oz. Azo Yellow, 5 lb. acetic
acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.
Deep Moss Green.--Prepare the dye-bath with 4-1/2 oz. Cyanine B,
9 oz. Fast Acid Blue R, 4-1/2 oz. Azo yellow, 1/2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R,
5 lb. acetic acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.
Blue Green.--A very fine shade of blue green is dyed with 9-1/2 oz.
Cyanine B, 1-1/4 lb. Fast Acid Blue R, 4 oz. Azo Yellow, 5 lb. acetic
acid, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt.
Emerald Green.--A pale, but brilliant shade of green is dyed with
1-1/4 oz. Patent Blue V, 4-1/4 oz. Azo Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt,
and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Bright Leaf Green.--Dye in a bath with 13 oz. Victoria Yellow, (p. 130)
1/2 lb. Patent Blue V, 1/2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 10 lb. Glauber's
salt, and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Deep Leaf Green.--The dye-bath is made with 22 oz. Cyanine B, 1 lb.
Azo Yellow, 2-1/2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb.
sulphuric acid.
Bright Peacock Green.--The dye-bath is made with 5 oz. Chromotrop
6 B, 4 oz. Patent Blue V, 7 oz. Azo Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and
2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Dark Beige Green.--Make the dye-bath with 1/2 lb. Fast Green Bluish,
6 oz. Fast Yellow F Y, 4-1/2 oz. Azo Fuchsine G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt
and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Invisible Green.--Make the dye-bath with 1-1/2 lb. Fast Green
Bluish, 1-1/4 lb. Fast Yellow F Y, 1 lb. Azo Fuchsine G, 10 lb.
Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Pale Sage Green.--Make the dye-bath with 1 lb. Azo Acid Brown,
1/2 lb. Fast Acid Violet 10 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb.
sulphuric acid.
Bright Grass Green.--Make a dye-bath with 10 lb. Glauber's salt,
2 lb. sulphuric acid, 3/4 lb. Phenoflavine, 3/4 lb. Azo Carmine B, and
5-3/4 lb. extract of indigo.
Moss Green.--Prepare a dye-bath with 1 lb. Azo Acid Brown, 1/4 lb.
Fast Acid Violet 10 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Dark Sage Green.--Make the dye-bath with 3 lb. Azo Acid Brown,
1/2 lb. Fast Acid Violet 10 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb.
sulphuric acid.
Emerald Green.--A fine shade of emerald green can be dyed in a bath
which is made from 1/2 lb. Fast Green Bluish, 1 lb. Fast Yellow F Y,
1 lb. Acid Violet 6 B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Bottle Green.--Make a dye-bath with 1-1/2 lb. Victoria Violet 8 B S,
3/4 lb. Victoria Yellow, 2 oz. Naphthol Yellow S, 1 oz. Fast Acid
Violet R, 1/2 oz. Cyanine B, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric
acid. Work for one hour at the boil, then lift; add 3 lb. fluoride (p. 131)
of chrome, re-enter the wool, and work for half an hour at the boil.
Pale Pea Green.--A fine bright shade is dyed in a bath containing
1-1/2 oz. Cyanole, 3/4 oz. Naphthol Yellow and 10 lb. bisulphate of
soda. By increasing the quantity of dye-stuff in proportion to the
material, fine deep shades of green can be dyed.
Deep Electric Green.--Make the dye-bath with 2 lb. Cyanole, 1 lb.
Indian Yellow G and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda, working at the boil for
one hour; then lift, wash and dry.
#With Mordant Dyes.# Green.--Mordant with 10 lb. alum, 1 lb.
bichromate of potash and 16 lb. tartar. Dye with 10 lb. indigo
extract, 2 lb. fustic extract and 3 lb. alum, working at the boil;
lift, wash and dry.
Dark Green.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash, 8 lb. alum and
3 lb. tartar. Dye with 10 lb. extract of indigo, 2 lb. extract of
fustic and 3 lb. alum, working at the boil.
Sea Green.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb.
tartar at the boil for one and a half hours. Dye with 1-1/4 lb.
Alizarine Blue D N W, 3-3/4 lb. Alizarine Yellow and 5 oz. Alizarine
Brown, at the boil for two hours.
Bronze Green.--Make a dye-bath with 2 lb. Cyanole extra, 2 lb.
Tropeoline O, 1 lb. Archil Substitute N and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda,
working at the boil to shade.
Green.--A very fine shade of green is dyed as follows: Mordant with
3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 4 lb.
Alizarine Blue D N W, 1-1/2 lb. Patent Blue A and 2-3/4 lb. Alizarine
Yellow.
Blue Green.--Mordant as in the last recipe. Dye with 6 lb. Alizarine
Blue D N W, 1-1/2 lb. Patent Blue A, and 1-1/4 lb. Alizarine Yellow
G G W.
Bright Pale Sage Green.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and
2 lb. sulphuric acid. Dye with 5 lb. Alizarine Yellow G G W, (p. 132)
3/4 lb. Alizarine Brown and 1-1/4 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W.
Deep Sage Green.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and
2-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 4 lb. Alizarine Yellow G G W, 3-1/4 lb.
Anthracene Brown and 2-1/4 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W.
Pale Sea Green.--Mordant with 2 lb. bichromate of potash and
1-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 1 lb. Coeruleine B.
Bottle Green.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb.
tartar. Dye with 20 lb. Coeruleine S W.
Slate Green.--Mordant with 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb.
tartar. Dye with 3 lb. Alizarine Green S.
Invisible Green.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and
2-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 17-1/2 lb. Alizarine Green S.
Peacock Green.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and
2-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 8 lb. Alizarine Green S.
Dark Bottle Green.--Mordant with 4 lb. bichromate of potash and
3 lb. tartar. Dye with 15 lb. Anthracene Blue W G, and 1-1/2 lb.
Mordant Yellow.
Invisible Green.--Mordant with 3-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash and
2-1/2 lb. tartar, working at the boil for one and a half hours. Dye
with 20 lb. Alizarine Green S W, and 1 lb. acetic acid.
Sage Green.--Give a medium indigo ground to the wool in a vat, then
dye for one hour at the boil in a vat containing 1/2 lb. Anthracite
Black B, 2 lb. Anthracene Yellow C, 2 oz. Diamine Fast Red F, and
5 lb. acetate of ammonia; then lift, add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome,
re-enter into the dye-bath and work half an hour longer at the boil;
lift, wash and dry.
Peacock Green.--Give a medium indigo bottom on the vat, then dye for
one hour at the boil in a dye-bath made with 1/2 lb. Anthracene
Yellow C, 2 oz. Diamine Fast Red F, and 5 lb. acetic acid; then lift,
add 3 lb. fluoride of chrome, work for half an hour longer at the
boil, then lift, wash and dry.
Bottle Green.--Mordant by boiling in a bath of 3 lb. copperas (p. 133)
and 1 lb. oxalic acid. Dye in a bath with 15 lb. Gambine R.
Light Green.--Mordant with 3 lb. copperas and 1 lb. oxalic acid. Dye
with 2-1/2 lb. Gambine Y.
Medium Green.--Mordant as in the last dye with 10 lb. Gambine Y.
Deep Grass Green.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and
2-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 9 lb. Coerulein and 1-3/4 lb.
Galloflavine.
Bright Grass Green.--Mordant with 4 lb. copperas and 1 lb. oxalic
acid. Dye with 5 lb. Gambine Y, 1/2 lb. Yellow N, and 2 lb. bisulphate
of soda.
Shades dyed with Gambine are very fast to milling and light.
Pale Sage Green.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb.
tartar. Dye with 1/2 lb. Milling Yellow O, 2 lb. Alizarine Black S W,
and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Medium Green.--Mordant with 2-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash and
1-1/2 lb. oxalic acid. Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Diamond Yellow B, 3-1/2 lb.
Brilliant Alizarine Blue G, and 1 lb. acetic acid.
Invisible Bronze Green.--Give a medium bottom on the indigo vat and
then mordant with 3 lb. fluoride of chrome and 2 lb. tartar. Finally
dye with 3 lb. Alizarine Bordeaux S, and 4 lb. Diamond Flavine,
working at the boil for two hours.
Pale Slate Green.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and
2-1/2 lb. tartar, and then dye with 1 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W,
Alizarine Yellow and 5 oz. Alizarine Brown.
Light Green.--Mordant in the usual way with 2-1/2 lb. bichromate of
potash and 2 lb. tartar. Dye with 1 lb. Methylene Blue and 1 lb.
fustic extract, working at the boil.
Fast Green.--Mordant with 8 lb. alum, 2 lb. bichromate of potash,
2 lb. sulphuric acid and 3/4 lb. tin salt. Dye with 20 lb. indigo (p. 134)
extract and 10 oz. fustic extract, working at the boil for one and a
half hours.
Bottle Green.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb.
tartar. Dye with 4 lb. extract of fustic, 1 lb. extract of logwood,
and 2 oz. Anthracene Red. Work for one and a half hours, then add
3/4 lb. copperas, and work for half an hour longer.
Dark Green.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb.
tartar. Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Methylene Blue, 1-1/2 lb. extract of
logwood, and 4 lb. extract of fustic, working at the boil for two
hours.
Olive.--Prepare a dye-bath with 1-1/2 lb. Yellow N, 1/4 lb. Archil
Substitute, 4 lb. extract of indigo, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb.
sulphuric acid, and 2 lb. alum, working at the boil to shade.
Bright Green.--Prepare a dye-bath containing 8 oz. Acid Green Extra
and 10 per cent. bisulphate of soda. Enter at 130 deg. F., raise to the
boil, boil for three-quarters of an hour, and rinse.
Bluish Green.--Prepare a dye-bath containing 8 oz. Fast Acid Green
B N and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Enter at 130 deg. F., raise to the
boil, boil for three-quarters of an hour, and rinse.
Bluish Green.--Prepare a dye-bath containing 8 oz. Cyanole Green 6 G
and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Enter at 130 deg. F., raise to the boil,
boil for three-quarters of an hour, and rinse.
Turquoise Green.--Prepare a dye-bath containing 8 oz. Cyanole
Green B and 10 lb. bisulphate of soda. Enter at 130 deg. F., raise to the
boil, boil for three-quarters of an hour, and rinse.
Slate Green.--Mordant the wool by boiling for one and a half (p. 135)
hours in a bath containing 3 lb. bichromate of potash, 1-1/4 lb.
Copper sulphate and 2-1/4 lb. tartar; then rinse well, and dye in a
bath containing 2-1/2 lb. Logwood Extract (dry), 1-1/4 lb. Fustic
Extract (dry), and 3 lb. Sumac. Enter the goods in a warm bath, work
for half an hour, then raise to the boil and work for three-quarters
of an hour; lift, and sadden by adding 6 oz. Copperas. After
re-entering the goods, work to shade.
Olive.--Boil two hours in a bath consisting of 1-1/2 lb. tin salt,
2-1/2 lb. bichromate of potash, 10 lb. alum and 2-1/2 lb. sulphuric
acid. Then enter in a boiling dye-bath containing 1-1/2 lb. alum,
4 lb. fustic extract and 3-1/2 lb. indigo extract.
Fulling Fast Olive.--For one hour upon a bath containing 50 lb.
Fustic, 5 lb. Bluestone, 2 lb. Tartar, 4 lb. Sumac, 1 lb. Copperas;
lift and wash.
Fast Bright Olive.--Boil for one hour upon a bath of 50 lb. Fustic,
3 lb. Bluestone, 2 lb. tartar, 1 lb. copperas, 2 oz. indigo extract.
Yellow Olive.--Prepare a bath containing 10 lb. Glauber's salt,
1-1/2 lb. Anthracene Yellow B N, 2 lb. extract of indigo, 3 oz. Orange
E N Z, 4 lb. sulphuric acid. Enter yarn at 160 deg. F., give three turns,
raise the temperature slowly to the boil, turn to shade; lift, and
wash.
Olive Green.--Mordant with 2 lb. potash bichromate, 1-1/2 lb.
sulphate of copper, 1/2 lb. sulphuric acid. Boil for an hour and a
half. Dye in a bath with 8 lb. Fustic extract, 5 lb. Sumac, 5 lb.
Logwood, at the boil for an hour and a half.
Olive Bronze.--Make the dye-bath with 10 oz. Fast Yellow S, 5 lb.
Indigo extract, 5 oz. Orange E N Z, 4 lb. sulphuric acid, 10 lb.
Glauber's salt. Enter yarn at 140 deg. F., work for a few minutes, then
bring slowly to the boil and work to shade.
Emerald Green.--Prepare the dye-bath with 1 lb. Acid Green B N, (p. 136)
2 oz. Naphthol Yellow S, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb. sulphuric
acid. Enter cold, then raise to the boil and work for a quarter of an
hour; wash and dry.
Invisible Green.--First mordant the wool in a bath containing 3 lb.
bichromate of potash, 1-1/2 lb. copper sulphate, 1 lb. sulphuric acid.
Work at the boil for one and a half hours, then dye in a fresh bath
containing 2 lb. Milling Yellow O, 2 lb. Logwood extract, 20 lb.
Glauber's salt. Work at the boil for one and a half hours, then lift,
wash and dry.
Sea Green.--Prepare a dye-bath with 5 lb. Glauber's salt, 2 lb.
sulphuric acid, 2 lb. indigo extract, 1/2 per cent. Acid Green blue
shade. Dye as usual.
Cyprus Green B, and Cyprus Blue B, belong to a new group of dyes that
owe their value in wool dyeing to the fact that the dyeings after
being treated with copper sulphate become very fast to light and
washing. Three per cent. of each gives very full shades of bluish
green or dark blue. The dyeing is done with Glauber's salt and acetic
acid when reddish shades are got; these in a bath of copper sulphate
turn green or blue.
More
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Alder Bark
The bark and twigs of alder are used for dyeing brown and black. For 1 lb. wool use 1 lb. alder bark. Boil the wool with it for 2 hours, when it should be a dull reddish brown. Add 1/2 oz. copper as for every pound of wool for black. ... Alum
This is the most generally used of all the mordants, and has been known as such from early times in many parts of the world. For most colours a certain proportion of cream of tartar should be added to the alum bath as it helps to brighten the ultima... Appendix
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There are a very large number of blue artificial dyes of every class, but only a few natural ones, indigo and logwood, and with these every imaginable tint and shade of blue from the palest sky tints to the darkest navy blue or blue black can be pro... Boiling Out
Before dyeing cotton in the raw state, or in yarn spun direct from the raw state, it must be boiled for several hours to extract its natural impurities. For dark colours water alone may be used, but for light and bright colours a weak solution of ca... Brazil Woods
Various leguminous trees, including lima, sapan and peach wood, dye red with alum and tartar, and a purplish slate colour with bichromate of potash. Some old dyers use Brazil wood to heighten the red of madder. CAMWOOD, BARWOOD, SANDALWOOD, or SA... British Dye Plants
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Catechu (Cutch) is an old Indian dye for cotton. It can also be used for wool and silk, and gives a fine rich brown. It is obtained from the wood of various species of Areca, Acacia and Mimosa trees. Bombay Catechu is considered best for dyeing purp... Catechu Brown
The wool is boiled for 1 to 1-1/2 hours, with 10 to 20 per cent catechu, then sadden with 2 to 4 per cent of copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate, or chrome, at 100 deg.C., in a separate bath for 1/2 hour. ... Chrome
(Potassium dichromate. Bichromate of Potash.) Chrome is a modern mordant, unknown to the dyer of fifty years ago. It is excellent for wool and is easy to use and very effective in its action. Its great advantage is that it leaves the wool soft to ... Cochineal
The dried red bodies of an insect (Coccus Cacti) found in Mexico are named Cochineal. (1). PURPLE, CRIMSON AND SCARLET (For 1 lb. wool.) Mordant with Bichromate of Potash (3%). Dye for 1 to 2 hours with 3 oz. to 6 oz. cochineal. With alum morda... Copper
(Copper Sulphate, Verdigris, Blue Vitriol, Blue Copperas, Bluestone.) Copper is rarely used as a mordant. It is usually applied as a saddening agent, that is, the wool is dyed first, and the mordant applied afterwards to fix the colour. With crea... Cotton
Cotton is the down surrounding the seeds in pods of certain shrubs and trees growing in tropical and semi-tropical countries. First introduced into Europe by the Saracens, it was manufactured into cloth in Spain in the early 13th century. Cotton clo... Cotton
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Following on the washing comes the final operation of the dyeing process, that of drying the dyed and washed goods. Now textile fabrics of all kinds after they have passed through dye-baths, washing machines, etc., contain a large amount of water, o... Dyeing And Finishing
=Dyeing.= When a fabric or fiber is impregnated with a uniform color over its whole surface, it is said to be "simply dyed." On the other hand, if distinct patterns or designs in one or more colors have been impressed upon a fabric, it is called p... Dyeing Machinery And Dyeing Manipulations
Wool is dyed in a variety of forms, raw, loose wool; partly manufactured fibre in the form of slubbing or sliver; spun fibres or yarns, in hanks or skeins and in warps, and lastly in the form of woven pieces. These different forms necessitate the ... Dyeing Machines
Dye-tubs and vats, such as those described above, have been largely superseded by machines in which the handling or working of the materials being dyed is effected by mechanical means. There have been a large number of dyeing machines invented, some... Dyeing Of Gloria
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Genista Tinctoria. The plant grows on waste ground. It should be picked in June or July and dried. It can be used with an alum and tartar mordant and gives a good bright yellow. It is called greening weed and used to be much used for greening blue w... Experimental Dyeing And Comparative Dye Testing
Every dyer ought to be able to make experiments in the mordanting and dyeing of textile fibres for the purpose of ascertaining the best methods of applying mordants or dye-stuffs, the best methods of obtaining any desired shade, and for the purpos... Fibers
All the materials used in the manufacture of clothing are called textiles and are made of either long or short fibers. These fibers can be made into a continuous thread. When two different sets of threads are interlaced, the resulting product is c... Flax
=Flax.= Flax or linen occupies the first position in the group of stem fibers,[18] being not only the oldest, but next to cotton the most important vegetable spinning material known. Its value is increased by the fact that the flax plant readily a... Green
Green results from the mixing of blue and yellow in varying proportions according to the shade of colour required. Every dyer has his particular yellow weed with which he greens his blue dyed stuff. But the best greens are undoubtedly got from w... Green Shades On Wool
Of green shades there is an infinite variety, and these can be dyed in several ways. Either a simple green dye-stuff may be used or mixtures of blue and yellow dye-stuffs may be employed, this latter method being extremely common. It is somewhat int... Heather
Most of the heathers make a yellow dye, but the one chiefly used is the Ling, Calluna vulgaris. The tips are gathered just before flowering. They are boiled in water for about half-an-hour. The wool, previously mordanted with alum or chrome accordin... Hemp
=Hemp= is a fiber that is obtained from the hemp plant. It grows principally in Russia, Poland, France, Italy, Asia, India, the Philippines, Japan, and some parts of the United States--Kentucky, Missouri, Tennessee, Ohio, Indiana, and New York. Th... History Of Lace
Lace, like porcelain, stained glass, and other artistic things, has always been an object of interest to all classes. Special patterns of laces date from the sixteenth century. The church and court have always encouraged its production. While the ea... History Of Manufacturing
=Spinning.= Spinning and weaving are two of the earliest arts practised by man. Yarn for the making of cloth was spun in the earliest times by the use of the distaff and spindle. The spindle was a round stick of wood a foot or less in length, taperi... History Of Textiles
The three fundamental industries that have developed from necessity are the feeding, sheltering, and clothing of the human race. These primary wants were first gratified before such conveniences as transportation and various lines of manufacture wer... History Of The Organization Of Textile Industries
The development of the textile industry may be divided into four stages or periods: first, the family system; second, the guild system; third, the domestic system; and fourth, the factory system. =The Family System.= Under the family system the wo... Hydrosulphite-soda Vat For Wool
2 ozs. powdered indigo. 7 fluid ozs. Caustic Soda solution (SG 1.2). 4 pints Sodium Hydrosulphite (SG 1.1). The Stock Solution.--Take 2 ozs. of well pounded indigo, with enough warm water (120 deg.F.) to make a paste, and grind in a pestle and m... Indigo
Indigo is the blue matter extracted from a plant Indigofera tinctoria and other species, growing in Asia, South America and Egypt. It reaches the market in a fine powder, which is insoluble in water. There are two ways of dyeing with Indigo. It may ... Indigo Extract 4 To 6 Lbs Wool
Mordant[E] 25% Alum. Stir 2 to 3 ozs. Indigo extract into the water of dye bath. The amount is determined by the depth of shade required. When warm, enter the wool and bring slowly to boiling point (about 1/2 an hour) and continue boiling for anothe... Indigo Vat Tin For Wool
To 2 quarts of water add 1/4 lb. lime, and make hot. Then add 1 oz. indigo pounded up with a little of the lime water; let it stand and get warmer. Pound up 1/2 oz. tin, Stannous Chloride, in a little lime water and add, together with 1/2 oz. zinc. ... Iron
(Ferrous Sulphate, copperas, green vitriol.) Iron is one of the oldest mordants known and is largely used in wool and cotton dyeing. It is almost as important as alum. The temperature of the mordanting bath must be raised very gradually to boiling... Kermes
Kermes, or Kerms, from which is got the "Scarlet of Grain" of the old dyers, is one of the old insect dyes. It is considered by most dyers to be the first of the red dyes, being more permanent than cochineal and brighter than madder. In the 10th cen... Knitting
The art and process of forming fabrics by looping a single thread, either by hand with slender wires or by means of a machine provided with hooked needles, is called knitting. Crocheting is an analogous art, but differs from knitting in the fact t... Lace
=Lace.= Lace is the name applied to an ornamental open work of threads of flax, cotton, silk, gold, or silver, and occasionally of mohair or aloe fiber. The latter are used by the peasants of Italy and Spain. Lace consists of two parts, the grou... Lace Terms Defined
Alencon (Point d').--Fine needlepoint lace with the ground of double-twist thread in a semi-net effect. Is usually worked with horsehair on the edges to give firmness to the cordonnet. Called after the city in France where it is... Light Grey
(For 6 lbs.) 1 oz. cutch, 1 oz. iron. Boil for 1/2 an hour in the cutch, then put into boiling iron, being very careful to stir well. Wash very thoroughly. These proportions can be varied according to the shade of grey required; the more iron mak... Linen
Linen is flax, derived from the decomposed stalks of a plant of the genus Linum. It grows chiefly in Russia, Belgium, France, Holland and Ireland. The plants after being gathered are subjected to a process called "retting" which separates the fib... List Of Lichens Used By The Peasantry Of Different Countries For Wool Dyeing
SHADES OF RED, PURPLE AND ORANGE Borrera ashney. Chutcheleera. India. Conicularia aculeata. var. spadicea. Brown prickly cornicularia. Canary Islands, Highland Mountains. Evernia prunastri. Ragged hoary Lichen. Stag's horn... Logwood
(Bois de Campeche, Campeachy Wood) Logwood is a dye wood from Central America, used for producing blues and purples on wool, black on cotton and wool, and black and violet on silk. It is called by old dyers one of the Lesser Dyes, because the col... Madder
Madder consists of the ground-up dried roots of a plant Rubia tinctorum, cultivated in France, Holland and other parts of Europe, as well as in India. Madder is one of the best and fastest dyes. It is used also in combination with other dyes to prod... Manufacture Of Cotton Yarn
=Picker Room.= The first step in the conversion of the bale of cotton into yarn consists in giving the cotton fibers a thorough cleaning. This is accomplished by feeding the cotton to a series of picker machines called in order, bale breaker, co... Mode Colours On Wool
Under the general designation of mode colours are included a great variety of tints or shades unusually described more specifically (p. 165) as drabs, buffs, greys, fawns, slates, etc. It is impossible here to do more than give a few recipes for t... Mordants
Any dye belongs to one of two classes. Substantive, giving colouring directly to the material: and adjective, which includes the greater number of dyes and requires the use of a mordant to bring out the colour. There are thus two processes conc... Mordants
Alum. Alum (1/4 weight of cotton) is dissolved in hot water with carbonate of soda crystals, or other alkali (1/4 weight of alum); work cotton in the solution, steep for several hours or overnight. Then well wash. Aluminium acetate solution as for s... Old Fustic
Fustic is the wood of Morus tinctoria, a tree of Central America. It is used principally for wool. With Bichromate of Potash as mordant, Old Fustic gives old gold colour. With alum it gives yellow, inclining to lemon yellow. The brightest yellows ar... Onion Skins
Prepare by mordanting with alum. Take a sufficient quantity of onion skins and boil for 30 minutes. This gives a good yellow. The addition of tin will make the colour more orange. ... Operations Following Dyeing Washing Soaping Drying
After loose wool, or woollen yarns or piece goods of every description have been dyed, before they can be sent out for sale they have to pass through various operations of a purifying character. There are some operations through which cloths pass ... Orange Shades On Wool
#With Direct Dyes.# Make a dye-bath with 2 lb. Titan Orange, 20 lb. Glauber's salt, and 1/2 lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil for one and a half hours, then lift, wash and dry. Bright Orange.--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Benzo Orange R, 10 lb. salt, and 1... Orange With Flavin Or Quercitron 1 Lb
Put into bath first 1/2 oz. Cream of Tartar. Then 3/4 oz. tin mixed with water (important to enter the Tartar first). Enter yarn and boil for 45 minutes. In the meantime have mixed up 1/2 oz. Flavin and 1/2 oz. to 3/4 oz. Cochineal (according to dep... Plants Which Dye Black
Alder. Alnus glutinosa. Bark, with copperas. Blackberry. Rubus fruticosus. Young shoots, with salts of iron. Dock. Rumex. Root. Elder. Bark, with copperas. Iris. Iris Pseudacorus. Root. Meadowsweet. Sp... Plants Which Dye Blue
Devil's Bit. Scabiosa succisa. Leaves prepared like woad. Dog's Mercury. Mercurialis perennis. Elder. Sambucus nigra. Berries. Privet. Ligustrum vulgare. Berries with alum and salt. Red bearberry. Arctostaphylos Uva... Plants Which Dye Green
Elder. Sambucus nigra. Leaves with alum. Flowering reed. Phragmites communis. Flowering tops, with copperas. Larch. Bark, with alum. Lily of the valley. Convalaria majalis. Leaves. Nettle. Urtica dioica and U.... Plants Which Dye Purple
Byrony. Byronia dioica. Berries. Damson. Fruit, with alum. Dandelion. Taraxacum Dens-leonis. Roots. Danewort. Sambucus Ebulus. Berries. Deadly nightshade. Atropa Belladonna. Elder. Sambucus nigra. Berries, w... Plants Which Dye Red
Birch. Betula alba. Fresh inner bark. Bed-straw. Gallium boreale. Roots. Common Sorrel. Rumex acetosa. Roots. Dyer's Woodruff. Asperula tinctoria. Roots. Evergreen Alkanet. Anchusa sempervirens. Gromwell. Li... Plants Which Dye Yellow
Agrimony. Agrimonia Eupatoria. Ash. Fraxinus excelsior. Fresh inner bark. Barberry. Berberis vulgaris. Stem and root. Birch. Leaves. Bog Asphodel. Narthecium ossifragum. Bog Myrtle or Sweet Gale. Myrica Gale...