Mode Colours On Wool
Under the general designation of mode colours are included a great
variety of tints or shades unusually described more specifically (p. 165)
as drabs, buffs, greys, fawns, slates, etc. It is impossible here to
do more than give a few recipes for their production.
#With Direct Dyes.# Drab.--Make a dye-bath with 3 oz. Nyanza Black B,
1-1/2 oz. Chrysamine G, 2 oz. Congo orange R, and 20 lb. Glauber's
salt,
#With Acid Dyes.# Bright Buff.--Dye in a bath containing 3/4 oz. each
Cyanole, Orange extra, and Indian Yellow R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and
2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Slate.--Use a dye-bath containing 3 oz. Cyanole, 1/4 oz. Archil
Substitute N, 1/2 oz. Orange extra, 10 lb. Glauber's salt, and 2 lb.
sulphuric acid.
Silver Grey.--Use 1-1/4 oz. Orange extra, 3/4 oz. Archil
Substitute N, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Pale Drab.--Make the dye-bath with 1/2 oz. Cyanine B, 3/4 oz. Azo
Yellow, 1/4 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb.
sulphuric acid.
Grey.--Make the dye-bath with 1 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 1-1/4 oz.
Cyanine B, 2-1/2 oz. Fast Acid Blue R, 2 oz. Azo Yellow, 10 lb.
Glauber's salt and 5 lb. acetic acid.
Bright Fawn.--The dye-bath is made with 2 oz. Chromotrop 2 R, 8 oz.
Orange G, 2-1/4 oz. Fast Acid Blue R, 1-1/4 oz. Cyanine B, 10 lb.
Glauber's salt and 5 lb. acetic acid.
Dark Buff.--Use 2 oz. Cyanine B, 5 oz. Azo Yellow, 2-1/2 oz.
Chromotrop 2 R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Lilac Grey.--Use 3 oz. each Fast Acid Violet 10 B, Fast Green
bluish, and Fast Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric
acid.
Pale Fawn Drab.--Use 1 oz. Patent Blue V, 1 oz. Rhodamine, 1-3/4 oz.
Orange G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Dark Grey.--Use 1 lb. Wool Grey R, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and (p. 166)
2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Stone.--Use 1 oz. Patent Blue J B, 1-3/4 oz. Orange G, 10 lb.
Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Pale Fawn Brown.--Use 4 oz. Fast Acid Violet R, 2 oz. Patent Blue
J O O, 3 oz. Orange G, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 3 lb. sulphuric acid.
Drab.--Use 3 oz. Azo Carmine, 1-1/2 oz. Fast Yellow, 1-1/4 oz.
Indigo Carmine D, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
Lilac.--Use 1/2 lb. Azo carmine, 1/2 lb. Indigo Carmine D, 1-1/2 oz.
Fast Yellow, 10 lb. Glauber's salt and 2 lb. sulphuric acid.
#With Mordant Dyes.# Pale Drab.--Mordant with 2 lb. bichromate of
potash and 1-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 1 lb. Alizarine Brown paste.
Violet Grey.--Mordant as in the last recipe, and dye with 1 lb.
Alizarine Grey B.
Pale Fawn.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2-1/2 lb.
tartar, and dye with 4-1/2 lb. Alizarine Yellow, 13 oz. Alizarine
Brown, 11-1/2 oz. Alizarine Orange N, and 2 lb. acetic acid.
Pale Stone.--Mordant with 2 lb. bichromate of potash and 1-1/2 lb.
tartar. Dye with 13 oz. Alizarine Yellow and 1-1/4 lb. Alizarine
Brown.
Dark Slate.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb.
tartar. Dye with 2-1/2 lb. Alizarine Blue D N W, and 10 oz. Alizarine
Yellow.
Lavender Grey.--Mordant with 2 lb. bichromate of potash and
1-1/2 lb. tartar. Dye with 13 oz. Alizarine Blue D N W, and 2 oz.
Galleine.
Drab.--Mordant as in the last recipe; then dye with 4 oz. Alizarine
Blue, 1-1/2 lb. Alizarine Yellow and 14 oz. Alizarine Brown.
Drab.--Mordant with 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 1 lb. (p. 167)
sulphuric acid, and dye with 1 lb. Gambine R.
Dark Grey.--Give a light indigo bottom in the vat, and then dye in a
bath containing 3/4 oz. Diamine Fast Red F, 3/4 oz. Anthracene
Yellow C, and 5 lb. acetate of ammonia. Work at the boil for half an
hour, then add 5 lb. bisulphate of soda, work half an hour longer,
then add 1 lb. fluoride of chrome, and work for another half hour at
the boil; then lift, wash and dry.
More
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Cotton
Cotton is the down surrounding the seeds in pods of certain shrubs and trees growing in tropical and semi-tropical countries. First introduced into Europe by the Saracens, it was manufactured into cloth in Spain in the early 13th century. Cotton clo... Cotton
=Cotton.= Cotton is the most important vegetable fiber used in spinning. The cotton fiber is a soft, downy substance which grows around the cotton seed. When examined under the microscope it appears as a long twisted cell. Owing to the fact that t... Cotton Fabrics
=Albatross.= Cotton albatross cloth is a fabric made in imitation of a worsted fabric of the same name. It has a fleecy surface. The name is taken from the bird whose downy breast the finish of the fabric resembles. The warp is usually 28s cotton,... Drying
Following on the washing comes the final operation of the dyeing process, that of drying the dyed and washed goods. Now textile fabrics of all kinds after they have passed through dye-baths, washing machines, etc., contain a large amount of water, o... Dyeing And Finishing
=Dyeing.= When a fabric or fiber is impregnated with a uniform color over its whole surface, it is said to be "simply dyed." On the other hand, if distinct patterns or designs in one or more colors have been impressed upon a fabric, it is called p... Dyeing Machinery And Dyeing Manipulations
Wool is dyed in a variety of forms, raw, loose wool; partly manufactured fibre in the form of slubbing or sliver; spun fibres or yarns, in hanks or skeins and in warps, and lastly in the form of woven pieces. These different forms necessitate the ... Dyeing Machines
Dye-tubs and vats, such as those described above, have been largely superseded by machines in which the handling or working of the materials being dyed is effected by mechanical means. There have been a large number of dyeing machines invented, some... Dyeing Of Gloria
Gloria is a material which during the last few years has become of considerable importance as furnishing a fine lustrous fabric at a comparatively low price. The perfection to which the art of dyeing has attained and the facilities now available t... Dyeing Union (mixed Cotton And Wool) Fabrics
There is now produced a great variety of textile fabrics of every conceivable texture by combining the two fibres, cotton and wool, in a number of ways. The variety of these fabrics has of late years considerably increased, which increase may be l... Dyer's Broom
Genista Tinctoria. The plant grows on waste ground. It should be picked in June or July and dried. It can be used with an alum and tartar mordant and gives a good bright yellow. It is called greening weed and used to be much used for greening blue w... Experimental Dyeing And Comparative Dye Testing
Every dyer ought to be able to make experiments in the mordanting and dyeing of textile fibres for the purpose of ascertaining the best methods of applying mordants or dye-stuffs, the best methods of obtaining any desired shade, and for the purpos... Fibers
All the materials used in the manufacture of clothing are called textiles and are made of either long or short fibers. These fibers can be made into a continuous thread. When two different sets of threads are interlaced, the resulting product is c... Flax
=Flax.= Flax or linen occupies the first position in the group of stem fibers,[18] being not only the oldest, but next to cotton the most important vegetable spinning material known. Its value is increased by the fact that the flax plant readily a... Green
Green results from the mixing of blue and yellow in varying proportions according to the shade of colour required. Every dyer has his particular yellow weed with which he greens his blue dyed stuff. But the best greens are undoubtedly got from w... Green Shades On Wool
Of green shades there is an infinite variety, and these can be dyed in several ways. Either a simple green dye-stuff may be used or mixtures of blue and yellow dye-stuffs may be employed, this latter method being extremely common. It is somewhat int... Heather
Most of the heathers make a yellow dye, but the one chiefly used is the Ling, Calluna vulgaris. The tips are gathered just before flowering. They are boiled in water for about half-an-hour. The wool, previously mordanted with alum or chrome accordin... Hemp
=Hemp= is a fiber that is obtained from the hemp plant. It grows principally in Russia, Poland, France, Italy, Asia, India, the Philippines, Japan, and some parts of the United States--Kentucky, Missouri, Tennessee, Ohio, Indiana, and New York. Th... History Of Lace
Lace, like porcelain, stained glass, and other artistic things, has always been an object of interest to all classes. Special patterns of laces date from the sixteenth century. The church and court have always encouraged its production. While the ea... History Of Manufacturing
=Spinning.= Spinning and weaving are two of the earliest arts practised by man. Yarn for the making of cloth was spun in the earliest times by the use of the distaff and spindle. The spindle was a round stick of wood a foot or less in length, taperi... History Of Textiles
The three fundamental industries that have developed from necessity are the feeding, sheltering, and clothing of the human race. These primary wants were first gratified before such conveniences as transportation and various lines of manufacture wer... History Of The Organization Of Textile Industries
The development of the textile industry may be divided into four stages or periods: first, the family system; second, the guild system; third, the domestic system; and fourth, the factory system. =The Family System.= Under the family system the wo... Hydrosulphite-soda Vat For Wool
2 ozs. powdered indigo. 7 fluid ozs. Caustic Soda solution (SG 1.2). 4 pints Sodium Hydrosulphite (SG 1.1). The Stock Solution.--Take 2 ozs. of well pounded indigo, with enough warm water (120 deg.F.) to make a paste, and grind in a pestle and m... Indigo
Indigo is the blue matter extracted from a plant Indigofera tinctoria and other species, growing in Asia, South America and Egypt. It reaches the market in a fine powder, which is insoluble in water. There are two ways of dyeing with Indigo. It may ... Indigo Extract 4 To 6 Lbs Wool
Mordant[E] 25% Alum. Stir 2 to 3 ozs. Indigo extract into the water of dye bath. The amount is determined by the depth of shade required. When warm, enter the wool and bring slowly to boiling point (about 1/2 an hour) and continue boiling for anothe... Indigo Vat Tin For Wool
To 2 quarts of water add 1/4 lb. lime, and make hot. Then add 1 oz. indigo pounded up with a little of the lime water; let it stand and get warmer. Pound up 1/2 oz. tin, Stannous Chloride, in a little lime water and add, together with 1/2 oz. zinc. ... Iron
(Ferrous Sulphate, copperas, green vitriol.) Iron is one of the oldest mordants known and is largely used in wool and cotton dyeing. It is almost as important as alum. The temperature of the mordanting bath must be raised very gradually to boiling... Kermes
Kermes, or Kerms, from which is got the "Scarlet of Grain" of the old dyers, is one of the old insect dyes. It is considered by most dyers to be the first of the red dyes, being more permanent than cochineal and brighter than madder. In the 10th cen... Knitting
The art and process of forming fabrics by looping a single thread, either by hand with slender wires or by means of a machine provided with hooked needles, is called knitting. Crocheting is an analogous art, but differs from knitting in the fact t... Lace
=Lace.= Lace is the name applied to an ornamental open work of threads of flax, cotton, silk, gold, or silver, and occasionally of mohair or aloe fiber. The latter are used by the peasants of Italy and Spain. Lace consists of two parts, the grou... Lace Terms Defined
Alencon (Point d').--Fine needlepoint lace with the ground of double-twist thread in a semi-net effect. Is usually worked with horsehair on the edges to give firmness to the cordonnet. Called after the city in France where it is... Light Grey
(For 6 lbs.) 1 oz. cutch, 1 oz. iron. Boil for 1/2 an hour in the cutch, then put into boiling iron, being very careful to stir well. Wash very thoroughly. These proportions can be varied according to the shade of grey required; the more iron mak... Linen
Linen is flax, derived from the decomposed stalks of a plant of the genus Linum. It grows chiefly in Russia, Belgium, France, Holland and Ireland. The plants after being gathered are subjected to a process called "retting" which separates the fib... List Of Lichens Used By The Peasantry Of Different Countries For Wool Dyeing
SHADES OF RED, PURPLE AND ORANGE Borrera ashney. Chutcheleera. India. Conicularia aculeata. var. spadicea. Brown prickly cornicularia. Canary Islands, Highland Mountains. Evernia prunastri. Ragged hoary Lichen. Stag's horn... Logwood
(Bois de Campeche, Campeachy Wood) Logwood is a dye wood from Central America, used for producing blues and purples on wool, black on cotton and wool, and black and violet on silk. It is called by old dyers one of the Lesser Dyes, because the col... Madder
Madder consists of the ground-up dried roots of a plant Rubia tinctorum, cultivated in France, Holland and other parts of Europe, as well as in India. Madder is one of the best and fastest dyes. It is used also in combination with other dyes to prod... Manufacture Of Cotton Yarn
=Picker Room.= The first step in the conversion of the bale of cotton into yarn consists in giving the cotton fibers a thorough cleaning. This is accomplished by feeding the cotton to a series of picker machines called in order, bale breaker, co... Mode Colours On Wool
Under the general designation of mode colours are included a great variety of tints or shades unusually described more specifically (p. 165) as drabs, buffs, greys, fawns, slates, etc. It is impossible here to do more than give a few recipes for t... Mordants
Any dye belongs to one of two classes. Substantive, giving colouring directly to the material: and adjective, which includes the greater number of dyes and requires the use of a mordant to bring out the colour. There are thus two processes conc... Mordants
Alum. Alum (1/4 weight of cotton) is dissolved in hot water with carbonate of soda crystals, or other alkali (1/4 weight of alum); work cotton in the solution, steep for several hours or overnight. Then well wash. Aluminium acetate solution as for s... Old Fustic
Fustic is the wood of Morus tinctoria, a tree of Central America. It is used principally for wool. With Bichromate of Potash as mordant, Old Fustic gives old gold colour. With alum it gives yellow, inclining to lemon yellow. The brightest yellows ar... Onion Skins
Prepare by mordanting with alum. Take a sufficient quantity of onion skins and boil for 30 minutes. This gives a good yellow. The addition of tin will make the colour more orange. ... Operations Following Dyeing Washing Soaping Drying
After loose wool, or woollen yarns or piece goods of every description have been dyed, before they can be sent out for sale they have to pass through various operations of a purifying character. There are some operations through which cloths pass ... Orange Shades On Wool
#With Direct Dyes.# Make a dye-bath with 2 lb. Titan Orange, 20 lb. Glauber's salt, and 1/2 lb. acetic acid. Work at the boil for one and a half hours, then lift, wash and dry. Bright Orange.--Dye with 1-1/2 lb. Benzo Orange R, 10 lb. salt, and 1... Orange With Flavin Or Quercitron 1 Lb
Put into bath first 1/2 oz. Cream of Tartar. Then 3/4 oz. tin mixed with water (important to enter the Tartar first). Enter yarn and boil for 45 minutes. In the meantime have mixed up 1/2 oz. Flavin and 1/2 oz. to 3/4 oz. Cochineal (according to dep... Plants Which Dye Black
Alder. Alnus glutinosa. Bark, with copperas. Blackberry. Rubus fruticosus. Young shoots, with salts of iron. Dock. Rumex. Root. Elder. Bark, with copperas. Iris. Iris Pseudacorus. Root. Meadowsweet. Sp... Plants Which Dye Blue
Devil's Bit. Scabiosa succisa. Leaves prepared like woad. Dog's Mercury. Mercurialis perennis. Elder. Sambucus nigra. Berries. Privet. Ligustrum vulgare. Berries with alum and salt. Red bearberry. Arctostaphylos Uva... Plants Which Dye Green
Elder. Sambucus nigra. Leaves with alum. Flowering reed. Phragmites communis. Flowering tops, with copperas. Larch. Bark, with alum. Lily of the valley. Convalaria majalis. Leaves. Nettle. Urtica dioica and U.... Plants Which Dye Purple
Byrony. Byronia dioica. Berries. Damson. Fruit, with alum. Dandelion. Taraxacum Dens-leonis. Roots. Danewort. Sambucus Ebulus. Berries. Deadly nightshade. Atropa Belladonna. Elder. Sambucus nigra. Berries, w... Plants Which Dye Red
Birch. Betula alba. Fresh inner bark. Bed-straw. Gallium boreale. Roots. Common Sorrel. Rumex acetosa. Roots. Dyer's Woodruff. Asperula tinctoria. Roots. Evergreen Alkanet. Anchusa sempervirens. Gromwell. Li... Plants Which Dye Yellow
Agrimony. Agrimonia Eupatoria. Ash. Fraxinus excelsior. Fresh inner bark. Barberry. Berberis vulgaris. Stem and root. Birch. Leaves. Bog Asphodel. Narthecium ossifragum. Bog Myrtle or Sweet Gale. Myrica Gale... Principal Silk Fabrics
=Alma.= Cloth, double twilled from left to right diagonally, first made in black only as a mourning fabric. The name is from the Egyptian, as applied to a mourner or a singer at a funeral. =Barege.= Sheer stuff of silk and wool for veiling, name... Privet
Ligustrum Vulgare. The leaves dye a good fast yellow with alum and tartar. ... Processes Preparatory To Dyeing Scouring And Bleaching Of Wool
Wool scouring takes place at two stages in the process of manufacture into cloth. First, in the raw state, to free the wool from the large amount of grease and dirt it naturally contains; second, after being manufactured into cloth, it is again sc... Quercitron
Quercitron is the inner bark of the Quercus Nigra or Q. tinctoria, a species of oak growing in the United States and Central America. It was first introduced into England by Bancroft in 1775 as a cheap substitute for weld. He says, "The wool... Recipes For Dyeing
(1) INDIGO VAT Take 3 oz. well ground indigo, mix into a paste with hot water. Slake 3 oz. Quicklime and boil with 6 oz. Potash or Soda ash in sufficient water, let it settle, pour off the clear liquor in which dissolve the indigo paste, boil or ... Recipes For Dyeing Green
(1) GREEN WITH QUERCITRON FOR WOOL Dye the wool blue in the indigo vat, wash well. For 100 parts of wool put 3 of chalk and 10 or 12 of alum. Boil wool in this 1 hour. Then to same bath add 10 to 12 parts quercitron and continue boiling for 15 mi... Recipes For Dyeing Silk
(1) INDIGO VAT FOR BLUE Silk is dyed in a similar manner as described for wool, but requires stronger vats and longer dips to obtain the same depth of colour. See page 33. (2) INDIGO EXTRACT FOR BLUE Dye at a temperature of 40 to 50 deg.C. w... Recipes For Dyeing With Lichens
To dye Brown with Crotal. For 6-1/4 lbs. (100 ozs.) of wool. Dye baths may be used of varying strengths of from 10 to 50 ozs. of Crotal. Raise the bath to the boil, and boil for an hour. A light tan shade is got by first dipping the wool in a strong... Recipes For Dyeing With Logwood
(1). BLACK Mordant the wool for 1 to 1-1/2 hours with 3 per cent Chrome and 1 per cent Sulphuric Acid. Wash and dye in separate bath for 1 to 1-1/2 hours with 50 per cent Logwood. This gives a blue black. A dead black is got by adding 5 per cen... Recipes For Dyeing With Old Fustic
(1) OLD GOLD Boil the wool with 3 to 4 per cent chrome for 1 to 1-1/2 hours. Wash, and dye in a separate bath for 1 to 1-1/2 hours at 100 deg.C. with 20 to 80 per cent of old fustic. (2) OLD GOLD Mordant with 3 per cent chrome, for 3/4 hour ... Red Shades On Wool
The number of red shades that may be dyed (p. 100) on wool is infinite. They range over every variety of tint of red, from the palest blush-rose to the deepest crimson, and from the most brilliant pink to the dullest grenat shade. It is quite i... Silk
There are two kinds of silk (1) raw silk (reeled silk, thrown silk, drawn silk), and (2) waste silk or spun silk. Raw silk is that directly taken from the cocoons. Waste silk is the silk from cocoons that are damaged in some way so that they canno... Silk
=Silk.= The silk of commerce is obtained from the cocoons of several species of insects. These insects resemble strongly the ordinary caterpillars. At a certain period of its existence the silkworm gives off a secretion of jelly-like substance. Th... Soaping
Sometimes yarns or cloths have to be passed through a soap-bath after being dyed in order to brighten up the colours or develop them in some way. In the case of yarns this can be done on the reel washing (p. 205) machines such as are shown in fi... Substitutes For Cotton
On account of the high price of cotton various experiments have been made in an effort to replace it with fiber from wood pulp, grasses, leaves, and other plants. =Wood Pulp.= A Frenchman has discovered a process, la soyeuse, of making spruce w... Sumach
Sumach is the ground up leaves and twigs of the Rhus coraria growing in Southern Europe. It dyes wool a yellow and a yellow brown, but it is chiefly used in cotton dyeing. ... Testing Of The Colour Of Dyed Fabrics
It is frequently desirable that dyers should be able to ascertain with some degree of accuracy what dyes have been used to dye any particular sample of dyed cloth that has been offered to them to match. In these days of the thousand-and-one differ... The Chlorination Of Wool
The employment of chlorine in wool dyeing and wool printing has of late years received an impetus in directions previously little thought of. The addition of a little chlorine to the decoction of logwood has been recommended as increasing the dyeing... The Dyeing Of Cotton
The dyeing of cotton is difficult with the natural dye stuffs, there are only a few colours which can be said to be satisfactory. The fastest known in earlier days was Turkey red, a long and difficult process with madder and not very practical for... The Dyeing Of Silk
Silk is covered with a natural gum which has to be removed before the dyeing process can begin. This is done by boiling for one hour or more in a bath containing soap, 2 to 8 ozs. to the pound of silk according to the amount of gum on the silk. It... The Lichen Dyes
Some of the most useful dyes and the least known are to be found among the Lichens. They seem to have been used among peasant dyers from remote ages, but apparently none of the great French dyers used them, nor are they mentioned in any of the old... The Principles And Practice Of Wool Dyeing
The various methods which are used in dyeing wool have, of course, underlying them certain principles on which they are based, and on the observance of which much of the success of the process depends. Sometimes these principles are overlooked by ...