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Cotton Fabrics






=Albatross.= Cotton albatross cloth is a fabric made in imitation of a
worsted fabric of the same name. It has a fleecy surface. The name is
taken from the bird whose downy breast the finish of the fabric
resembles. The warp is usually 28s cotton, the filling 36s cotton. It
is a plain weave. Filling and warp count 48 picks per inch. The goods
are finished by being burled, sheared, washed, singed, dyed, rinsed,
dried, and pressed, care being taken not to press too hard. Sometimes
singeing is omitted. Albatross cloth is generally in white, black, or
solid colors. It is not often printed. It is light in weight, and is
used for dress goods.

=Awning.= A cotton cloth used as a cover to shelter from sun rays.

=Batiste.= Batiste is of French origin, and is a light, transparent
cloth, made from a fine quality of combed cotton yarn. There is a
gradual variation in quality ranging from a comparatively coarse to a
very fine fabric. The variety of qualities will suggest some idea of
the utility of the fabric. Its uses are even more varied than are the
qualities. The finer grades are used for dress goods and all kinds of
lingerie for summer wear, etc., while the cheaper grades are used for
linings in washable and unwashable shirt waists. Batiste is woven in
the gray, that is, with yarn direct from the spinning frame, with the
exception that the warp yarn is well sized, in order to stand better
the strain to which it is subjected during the weaving process.

=Bourrette.= A light weight, single cloth fabric, with two-ply cotton
warp and wool or a combination of cotton and shoddy filling, made with
the plain weave and in appearance a semi-rough-faced woolen fabric
with fancy effects in twist scattered about it. It is used principally
for ladies' fall suitings.

=Bedford Cord.= This is one of the most popular types of fabrics, the
distinguishing effect being a line or cord running lengthwise of the
cloth, the cord being more or less prominent. The cloth is made of
cotton, or sometimes of worsted. The face effect of the Bedford cord
is generally plain. Occasionally twill-faced cords are used. The cords
vary in width from about one twentieth to one quarter of an inch. To
get extra weight without altering the appearance of the face, extra
warp yarns, termed wadding ends, are inserted between the face weave
and the filling, floating at the back of the rib. When these wadding
ends are coarse, they give a pronounced rounded appearance to the
cord. They run from 88 to 156 picks to an inch.

=Buckram.= Buckram is derived from Bokhara. It may be described as a
coarse, glue-sized fabric, and is made of cotton, hemp, linen, or
cotton and hair (coarse) yarns, usually from 10s to 25s. Made of a
double cloth warp, 22s cotton, 34 picks to the inch, for the face or
top fabric 1/12's[17]; weight from loom 2.22 ozs. per yard. Bottom
fabric 1/12's cotton; filling 1/16's cotton; 12 picks to the inch.
Weight per yard, 1.8 ounces. These fabrics depend a great deal on the
finishing. The men's wear requires less sizing on account of the hair
it contains. The goods are piece dyed. Buckram is used principally for
stiffening garments, and to give them shape or form. It is placed
between the lining and the surface cloth of the garment in particular
parts, such as the lapels, etc. It is used in the millinery trade, and
is made into hats. Millinery buckram is sized two or three times.

=Calico= takes its name from Calicut, a city in India, where cloth was
first printed. The majority of inexpensive cotton fabrics are
constructed on the one up, one down system, or plain weave. Calico is
no exception to this rule. The printed designs on calicoes may be
somewhat elaborate or they may be simple geometrical figures. In
order, however, to comply with the true principles of art, such
fabrics as calicoes should have but simple geometrical figures for
their ornamental features. New styles and combinations of colors are
produced every month and faster and lighter color printed each season.
Most of the designs for calicoes and cotton cloth printing are made in
Paris. At present the steam styles are most prominent; they are the
fastest and lightest to be obtained. Calico is a printed cloth, the
printing being done by a printing machine which has a rotating
impression cylinder on which the design has been stamped or cut out.
The cloth in passing through the machine comes in contact with the
impression cylinder. The cylinder revolving in a color trough takes up
the color and leaves the impression of the design on the cloth.
Calicoes may be seen in almost any color. The printing machine is
capable of printing several colors in one design. Calicoes, however,
are usually in two colors, that is, one color for ground and the other
for figure. The ground color in most cases is effected by dyeing the
cloth in some solid color. After the cloth is dyed the design is
printed on it. The cloth, after it comes from the loom, is singed and
bleached, then sheared and brushed to take away all the lint, and then
sent to the dye house. The first process there is to boil it, after
which it is immersed in the dye tub. Calicoes are usually given what
may be termed a "cheap cotton dye." By "cheap cotton dye" is meant
that the colors are not fast, but will run or fade when subjected to
water. After the fabric is dyed, it is given to the printer, who
ornaments the face of the cloth with some geometrical design; then it
is practically ready for the merchant. After printing, the cloth is
dried and steamed to fix the color, afterwards soaped, washed,
finished, and folded. The printing machine turns out about 400 to 800
fifty-yard pieces a day. Calico is used for inexpensive dresses,
shirtwaists, wrappers, etc.

=Cambric.= Cambric is a heavy, glazed cotton fabric with a smooth
finish. It was first made in Cambrai, France. It has a plain weave
and a width of thirty-six inches. Cambrics are dyed in a jig machine.
After dyeing they are run through a mangle containing the sizing
substance, then dried, dampened, and run through a calender machine.
The glossy effect is obtained in this last finishing process. Cambric
is used for shirtwaists, dress goods, etc. The finer grades are made
from hard twisted cotton of good quality.

=Canvas.= This is a term applied to heavy, plain weave cloths made
with ply cotton yarn. They are used for mail bags, covering for boats,
etc.

=Chambray.= Chambray is a staple fabric of many years standing, being
next in rank among cotton goods after the better grade of gingham.
Chambray is a light-weight single cloth fabric that is always woven
with a plain weave, and always has a white selvedge. In effect it is a
cloth having but one color in the warp, and woven with a white
filling, this combination producing a solid color effect, the white
filling reducing any harshness of warp color in the cloth. It is
composed of one warp and one filling, either all cotton, cotton and
silk, or all silk. It is twenty-seven to thirty inches in width and
single 30s cotton warp to single 60s silk, the count of yarn being
governed by the weight per yard desired. The weight per finished yard
is two to three and one-half ounces. Good colors for the warp are navy
blue, dark brown, lavender, black, nile green, etc. When made of
cotton warp and filling the fabric receives a regular gingham finish.
The loom width can be restored by tentering or running the goods over
a machine fitted underneath with a series of coils of steam pipe. The
top of this machine is fitted with an endless chain with a row of
steel needles standing erect upon its face. Chains are adjusted to the
width desired, and as the machine runs, both selvedges are caught by
the needles and the cloth stretched to the required width.

=Cheese Cloth.= This is a thin cotton fabric of light weight and low
counts of yarn, which ranks among the cheapest in cotton goods. It is
used for innumerable purposes. The bleached fabric is used for
wrapping cheese and butter after they are pressed. It is also much in
demand for bunting for festival occasions, light curtains, masquerade
dresses, etc. When used for bunting, draperies, and the like it is
usually in colors, red, blue, cream, and yellow seeming to have the
greatest demand. The weave is one and one or plain weave.

=Chine.= Sometimes applied to glace silk, or cotton two-toned effects.
The name is French, meaning woven so as to have a mottled effect.

=Chintz.= Printed cotton cloth, with large, many-colored designs, used
for furniture covering. The Hindoo wears it as a body covering. Chintz
is the Hindoo word meaning variegated.

=Cotton Flannel.= Napped cotton flannel. Made first for trade in
Canton, China.

=Crash.= A plain fabric for outing suits, towels, etc.

=Crepe.= A fine, thin fabric of open texture made of cotton.

=Crepon.= Large designs in figured crepe. The name applies to the
crispiness of the finish and is from the French word creper, to make
crisp.

=Cretonne.= Heavy cotton cloth printed in large designs, for drapery
and furniture use. Cretonne was a Frenchman who first made the cloth.

=Crinoline.= Crinoline is a fabric composed of cotton warp, horsehair
filling, or all cotton yarns. It is sold in varying widths, and is
used by tailors and dress-makers in stiffening clothing. It is a cheap
cloth of low texture and simple construction, the distinguishing
feature being the stiff finish with either a dull or highly glazed
face on the cloth.

=Damask.= A cloth of silk and cotton, silk and linen, silk and wool,
or all linen in flowered or geometrical designs for drapery or table
covering. The weaves used are mostly twills and sateens. It takes its
name from Damascus, where it was first made.

=Denim.= This is a strong fabric usually made with a two up and one
down twill. It is used for overalls, furniture covering, and floor
covering.

=Diaper.= A figured cotton or linen fabric, which gets its name from
the Greek diapron, meaning figured. It is generally of good quality
as it is subject to excessive washing.

=Dimity.= A light-weight cotton fabric, the distinguishing feature of
which is the cords or ribs running warpwise through the cloth, and
produced by doubling the warp threads in either heddle or reed in
sufficient quantity to form the rib desired. The name is from a Greek
word meaning two-threaded. Dimity is a ladies' summer dress fabric,
and is made of regular cotton yarn, from 1/60's to the finest counts
in both warp and filling. It is made in both white and colors, solid
white being used in the most expensive grades. Colors are often
printed upon the face of the fabric after it has been woven in the
white.

=Domet.= This cloth is napped similar to a cotton flannel. It is used
for shirts, pajamas, etc., and made with bright colored stripes and
check patterns. The name is from domestic, home made.

=Duck.= Duck is a heavy single cloth fabric made of coarse two-ply
yarn and of a plain weave. It derives its name from its resemblance to
a duck's skin. It is of a lighter weight than canvas. In finishing
duck is taken from the loom and washed and sized, then dried and
pressed. If a fancy solid color is desired the goods are dyed in the
piece after the first washing. Duck is used in the manufacture of
sails, tents, car curtains, and for any purpose requiring a good
water-tight fabric, which will withstand rough usage. Duck has a stiff
hard feel, and excellent wearing qualities. The lighter weights are
used for ladies' shirtwaist suits, men's white trousers, etc.

=Drill.= A cotton fabric of medium weight generally made with the two
up and one down twill. It is extensively used for shoe linings.

=Eolienne= is the name applied to a fine dress fabric characterized by
having the filling of a much coarser count than the warp, thus
producing a corded effect across the breadth of the goods. This class
of goods is made up of a raw silk warp and either cotton or worsted
filling, with the warp ends per inch greatly in excess of picks per
inch. The goods are made up in gray, then dyed in the piece in any
color the trade desires. The darker shades find most favor for fall
and winter use, while the lighter shades are preferred for summer
wear. The width is from twenty-seven to fifty inches, and the price
per yard varies from 85 cents to $1.25.

=Etamine.= An etamine is a thin, glossy fabric used principally for
women's dress goods. Being a common and popular material for summer
wear, it is usually made as a piece-dyed fabric. A good reason for
making it piece-dyed is that this method is much cheaper than if the
yarn is dyed previous to the weaving. Etamines were originally made
with worsted yarns, which of course are more expensive; however, if a
good quality of cotton is used, there is little difference in
appearance between worsted and cotton etamine. The difference is
chiefly in the wearing quality, worsted being more durable. The
principal characteristic of an etamine is a crisp, glossy, and open
structure.

=Flannelette= is a narrow, light-weight fabric composed of all cotton
yarn, the filling being soft spun to permit of the raising of a very
slight nap on the back of the goods. The cloth is woven with bleached
yarn (warp and filling), the color effects being afterwards printed
upon the face of the goods by the printing machine. Flannelette is
made with simple one or two colored stripe patterns, either black and
white or indigo blue and white, and in imitation of a Jacquard
pattern. The finished fabrics are sold by the retailer at from eight
cents to twelve and one-half cents per yard, are twenty-seven inches
wide, and are used very extensively in the manufacture of ladies'
wrappers, kimonos, etc., for house wear.

=Fustian.= A corded fabric made on the order of corduroy and used in
England for trouserings, etc. First made at Fustat, a town on the
Nile, near Cairo. Velveteen and cordings in the lower, coarser grades
were sometimes called Fustian.

=Galatea Cloth.= Galatea cloth has been somewhat in demand in recent
years by women requiring serviceable and neat-appearing cotton fabrics
at a medium price. It is usually finished twenty-seven inches wide and
retails at fourteen cents to twenty cents per yard. It is shown in
plain colors as well as in figures, and in dotted and striped designs
on white and colored grounds. The patterns are obtained by printing.
Some manufacturers have found that they can take a standard type of
fabric and extend its use by varying the process of finishing. The
base of the cloth--that is, the fabric previous to dyeing or printing
or bleaching--is nothing more than an ordinary 5-end warp sateen of
fair quality.

=Gauze.= A veiling net, made in Gaza in Palestine.

=Gingham.= Gingham is a single cloth composed entirely of cotton, and
always woven with a plain weave. It is yarn-dyed in stripes or checks
and was originally of Indian make. It is the most widely known fabric
on the market and is made in various grades, having from fifty to
seventy-six ends per inch in the reed, and of 1/26's to 1/40's cotton
yarns in both warp and filling. It is a wash fabric, made in both
check and plaid patterns into which an almost unlimited variety of
color combinations are introduced. Ginghams are made with from two
colors, warp and filling, to eight colors in warp and six in filling.
Ginghams are used most commonly in the manufacture of ladies' and
children's summer dresses and aprons.

=Italian Cloth= is a light, glossy fabric made from cotton and
worsted, cotton and wool, cotton and mohair, and all cotton. It is
used for linings for the heavier styles of ladies' dresses, also for
underskirts, fancy pillow backs, etc. The cloth is woven in the gray
undyed yarns. In the finer grades the warp is sized so as to
facilitate the weaving process.

=Jaconet.= A thin cotton fabric, heavier than cambric. If properly
made one side is glazed. Derived from the French word jaconas.

=Khaki.= Twilled cotton cloth of a brown dust color, first used for
men's clothing in India. The word khaki is Indian for earth, or
dust-colored.

=Lawn.= Lawn is a light-weight single cloth wash fabric, weighing from
one and one fourth to two and one fourth ounces per yard, and in
widths from thirty-six to forty inches finished. It is composed of all
cotton yarns (bleached) from 1/40's to 1/100's, and is always woven
with a plain weave, one up, one down. The name is from Laon, a place
near Rheims, France, where lawn was extensively made. Plain lawn is
made of solid white or bleached yarn in both warp and filling. The
fancier grades, or those having color effects, are produced by
printing vines, floral stripes, small flowers, etc., in bright colors
in scattered effects on the face of the goods. The patterns are always
printed, never woven. Lawn, when finished, should have a soft, smooth
feel. Therefore the finishing process includes brushing, very light
starching or sizing, then calendering or pressing. Lawns have to be
handled carefully in the bleaching process, starched with an ordinary
starch mangle (the sizing containing a little blueing), finished on
the Stenter machine, and dried with hot air. Lawns are often tinted
light shades of blue, pink, cream, pearl, green, and other light
tints, with the direct colors added to the starch. It is used
principally in the manufacture of ladies' and children's summer
dresses, sash curtains, etc.

=Lingerie.= This relates to all sorts of ladies' and children's
undergarments, such as skirts, underskirts, infants' short dresses,
chemises, night robes, drawers, corset covers, etc.

=Linon= is a fine, closely woven plain fabric, well known for its
excellent wearing and washing qualities. It is made from combed cotton
yarns of long-stapled stocks to resemble as closely as possible fine
linen fabrics. The cloth structure is firmly made in the loom.

=Long Cloth= is a fine cotton fabric of superior quality, made with a
fine grade of cotton yarn of medium twist. Originally the fabric was
manufactured in England, and subsequently imitated in the United
States. The fabric is used for infants' long dresses, from which it
derives its name, and for lingerie. Long cloth to some extent
resembles batiste, fine muslins, India linen, and cambric. It is
distinguished from these fabrics by the closeness of its weave, and
when finished the fabric possesses a whiter appearance, due to the
closeness of the weave and the soft twist of the yarn. It is not used
as a dress fabric, chiefly because of its finished appearance, which
is similar in all respects to fabrics which we have been accustomed to
see used solely for lingerie, nightgowns, etc.

=Madras= is a light-weight single cloth fabric, composed of all cotton
or cotton and silk, and has excellent wearing qualities. It was at
first a light-colored checked or striped plain-faced cotton-silk
fabric, made in Madras, India, for sailors' head-dress. It is
twenty-seven inches wide, and is made of varying grades, weighing from
two to three ounces per yard, and is used at all seasons of the year.
It is used by ladies for summer skirts, shirtwaists, suits, etc., and
by men in shirts. It is known by the white and colored narrow-stripe
warp effects, and is made of cotton yarns ranging from 1/26 to 1/80
warp and filling, and from 50 to 100 or more ends per inch. The
utility of madras for nearly all classes of people permits the
greatest scope in creating both harmonious and contrasting color and
weave combinations.

The colors most in demand in this fabric are rich and delicate shades
of blue, rose, green, linen, tan, lavender, and bright red; for
prominent hair-line effects black, navy blue, dark green, royal blue,
and cherry red. Good fast color is necessary as it is a wash fabric.
If inferior colors are used, they will surely spread during the
finishing processes, and will cause a clouded stripe where a distinct
one was intended.

=Moreen.= Heavy mohair, cotton, or silk and cotton cloth, with worsted
or moire face. The making of moreen is interesting. The undyed cloth
is placed in a trough in as many layers as will take the finish. This
finish is imparted to the cloth by placing between the layers sheets
of manila paper; the contents of the trough are then saturated with
water; a heavy weighted roller is then passed over the wetted paper
and cloth, the movement of the roller giving the cloth a watered face.
It can then be dyed and refinished. The design or marking of moreen is
different on every piece. Moreen was at first made for upholstery and
drapery use. It was found to give a rustling sound similar to silk, so
was taken up for underskirts. The name is from the French moire,
meaning watering.

=Mull.= A soft cotton muslin of fine quality, made first in India,
later in Switzerland. The name in Hindoo is mal, meaning soft,
pliable.

=Mummy.= A plain weave of flax or linen yarn. Originally the winding
cloth of the Egyptian mummified dead.

=Muslin.= A fine cotton cloth of plain weave originally made in Mosul,
a city on the banks of the Tigris, in Asia.

=Nainsook.= Nainsook is a light cotton fabric utilized for various
purposes, such as infants' clothes, women's dress goods, lingerie,
half curtains, etc. The striped and plaid nainsook are used for the
same purposes. When the fabric is required for lingerie and infants'
clothes the English fabric is selected because of its softness. When
intended for dress or curtain fabric, the French-finished fabric is
chosen. The latter finish consists of slightly stiffening and
calendering the cloth. The fabric may be distinguished from fine
lawns, fine batiste, and fine cambric by the fact that it has not as
firm construction or as much body, and the finish is not as smooth or
as stiff, but inclines to softness, as the fabric has not the body to
retain the finishing material.

=Organdie.= An organdie may be defined as a fine, translucent muslin
used exclusively for dress goods. The fabric is made in a variety of
qualities as regards the counts of yarn used, and in a variety of
widths ranging from eighteen to sixty inches. The plain organdie is
popular in pure white, although considerable quantities are dyed in
the solid colors, pale blue, pink, etc., while the figured organdies
are usually bleached pure white, then printed with small floral
designs. The printed design is in from two to four colors, and in
delicate shades in conformity with the material. Organdie considered
in relation to cost as wearing material is rather expensive. The
reason for this is that it has a finish peculiar to itself, so that
when washed it does not have the same appearance as before. It loses
its crisp feeling altogether.

=Osnaburg.= A coarse cloth of flax and tow, made in America of cotton,
in checks or plaids, and used for furniture covering and mattress
making. The town of Osnaburg, in Germany, made the fabric first.

=Percale.= Percale is a closely woven fabric made with a good quality
of cotton yarn. The finer qualities are used for handkerchiefs,
aprons, etc., and when used for these purposes are not printed, but
bleached after the fabric comes from the loom. Percale is chiefly used
for dress fabrics, and when used for this purpose is generally printed
on one side with geometrical figures, generally black, although other
colors may be seen. The fabric is bleached before it is subjected to
the printing operations.

=Percaline.= Percaline is a highly finished and dressed percale. The
first process to which the cloth is subjected is to boil it off, that
is, to soak it in boiling water so as to relieve it from foreign
matter that it may have gathered during the weaving, and at the same
time to prepare it for dyeing. After dyeing it is sized to stiffen it,
and also to increase the gloss on the cloth. After sizing it is ready
for the calender. In order to give it the highest gloss the cloth is
doubled lengthwise or the pieces are put together back to back, and as
it passes through the rolls it is wet by steam, the rolls being well
heated and tightly set together. Percaline is used chiefly for
feminine wearing apparel, principally for linings, petticoats, etc.
These purposes require that the cloth shall be solid color, the darker
colors being preferred, as blue, green, and black. Sometimes it is
seen in lighter shades of brown and tan. The most attention is given
to the finishing process.

=Pique.= Pique is a heavy cotton material woven in corded or figured
effects. The goods are used for such purposes as ladies' tailor-made
suits, vestings, shirt fronts, cravats, bedspreads, and the like. It
was originally woven in diamond-shaped designs to imitate quilting.
The name is French for quilting. The plainest and most common fabrics
of pique are those in which the pattern consists of straight cords
extending across the cloth in the direction of the weft. In the
construction of these fabrics, both a face and back warp are required,
and the cords are produced by all the back warp threads being raised
at intervals of six, eight, or more picks over two or more picks of
the face cloth, which has a tendency to draw down on the surface of
the fabric. The goods are always woven white and no colors are ever
used. The face warp threads are generally finer than the back warp
threads, and are in the proportion of two threads for the face and one
thread for the back. On the heavier and better grades of pique coarse
picks called wadding are used to increase the weight, and also to give
more prominence to the cord effect. They are introduced between the
face and back cloths. In the lightest and cheapest grades neither any
wadding nor back picks are used. In this case the back warp threads
float on the back of the fabric except when raising over the face
picks to form the cord. In the figured pique the binding of the back
warp threads into the face cloth is not done in straight lines as in
plain pique, but the binding points are introduced so as to form
figures. These fabrics are woven in the white, and the figures are
purely the result of binding the face and back cloths together.

=Poplin.= Poplin or popeline is a name given to a class of goods
distinguished by a rib or cord effect running width way of the piece.
It referred originally to a fabric having a silk warp and a figure of
wool filling heavier than the warp. At the present time it refers more
to a ribbed fabric than to one made from any particular combination of
materials. Cotton poplin is usually made with a plain weave, the rep
effect being obtained either by using a fine warp as compared with the
filling, or a large number of ends as compared with picks per inch on
both. Irish poplin is a light-weight variety of poplin, sometimes
called single poplin, and is celebrated for its uniformly fine and
excellent wearing qualities. It is principally made in Dublin.

=Plumetis.= Sheer cotton or woolen cloth having raised dots or figures
in relief on plain ground. The design shows a feathery effect, as in
embroidery tambour. The name is French for this kind of embroidery,
and is derived from plume, French for feather.

=Rep.= A fabric having a surface of a cord-like appearance. The name
is probably corrupted from rib. It is used in making shirtwaists and
skirts.

=Sateen.= Twilled cotton cloth of light weight, finished to imitate
silk satin. There are two kinds, viz., warp sateen and filling sateen.

=Scrim.= Open mesh weave of cotton or linen for curtains and linings.
The name is from scrimp, referring to economy in weaving.

=Silesia= is a light-weight single cloth fabric, having a rather high
texture, and weighing about three ounces per yard. It is composed of
all cotton yarn, and is used principally as a lining for ladies' and
men's clothing. Silesia is woven of yarn in the gray state, and is
dyed in the piece in such colors as black, dark blue, brown, drab,
slate, steel, etc. An important feature is the highly glazed or
polished face of the goods, which is due to the action of the heated
roller in the calendering machine upon the sizing.

=Souffle.= The largest designs of crepon show a raised or puffed
appearance. Souffle is from the French and means puffed.

=Swiss.= From Switzerland, where the plain Swiss net and figured
cambric is a specialty in the St. Gall district.

=Tape.= Tape is a narrow fabric composed either of cotton or linen
yarns in warp and filling, and usually made with a point or broken
twill weave, the break in the weave occurring in the center of the
tape, and the twill lines running in a right- and left-hand direction.
It is used as a trimming in the manufacture of clothing, also as a
binding in innumerable cases, and is sold by the roll, each roll
containing a certain number of yards. It is made of all bleached and
of regular yarns about 1/26's to 1/30's and 1/40's cotton.

=Tarletan.= An open mesh of coarse cotton, used mostly in fruit
packing, sometimes for dress and drapery. The name is from
tarlantanna, Milanese for coarse weave of linen and wool.

=Terry Cloth or Turkish Toweling= is a cotton pile fabric. It is woven
in such a way as to permit the forming of a series of loops on each
side of the cloth in regular order. After leaving the loom each piece
is laid separately in the bleaching kier. Then the goods are dried on
a tenter frame, given a light starching to add weight, run through a
rubber rolled mangle and again dried on a tenter frame. This cloth is
used in the manufacture of towels, Turkish bath robes, etc. Turkish
toweling is the original terry. The name is from the French tirer,
to draw or pull.

=Zephyr Gingham= is the finest grade of gingham made and is a
light-weight cotton fabric, composed of 1/40's to 1/60's cotton warp
and filling yarns. It is woven with either the plain weave or a small
all-over dobby effect. It is made in attractive patterns by using good
fast colors in warp and filling, and as a cloth has excellent wearing
qualities.





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