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arbitrary as some dyers consider a better green is got by dyeing it

yellow before the blue. But the first method produces the fastest and

brightest greens as the aluming after the blue vat clears the wool of

the loose particles of indigo and seems to fix the colour.



If a bright yellow green is wanted, then mordant with alum after the

indigo bath; if olive green, then mordant with chrome.



The wool can be dyed blue for green in three different ways:--1st in

the Indigo vat, 2nd with Indigo Extract with Alum mordant, 3rd with

logwood with Chrome mordant. For a good bright green, dye the wool a

rather light blue, then wash and dry; Mordant with alum, green it with

a good yellow dye, such as weld or fustic, varying the proportion of

each according to the shade of green required. Heather tips, dyer's

broom, dock roots, poplar leaves, saw wort are also good yellows for

dyeing green. If Indigo Extract is used for the blue, fustic is the

best yellow for greening, its colour is less affected by the sulphuric

acid than other yellows.



According to Bancroft, Quercitron is the yellow above all others for

dyeing greens. He says:--"The most beautiful Saxon greens may be

produced very cheaply and expeditiously by combining the lively yellow

which results from Quercitron bark, murio sulphate of tin and alum,

with the blue afforded by Indigo when dissolved in sulphuric acid, as

for dyeing the Saxon Blue."



"For a full bodied green" he says "6 or 8 lbs. of powdered bark should

be put into a dyeing vessel for every 100 lbs. wool, with a similar

quantity of water: When it begins to boil, 6 lbs. murio-sulphate of

tin should be added (with the usual precaution) and a few minutes

afterwards 4 lbs. alum: these having boiled 5 or 6 minutes, cold water

should be added, and then as much sulphate of Indigo as needed for the

shade of green to be dyed, stirring thoroughly. The wool is then put

into the liquor and stirred briskly for half an hour. It is best to

keep the water just at the boiling point."